PAST REPASTS

Here are some capsule summaries of previous restaurant reviews:

Blanc, 13451 McGregor Blvd., Fort Myers; 887-3139.

Chef Jean Claude Roge’s sophisticated small plates draw inspiration from Asian and Mediterranean cuisines and tap into the new appreciation for vegetables. The gorgeously caramelized miso-glazed Brussels sprouts and “batterless” fried beets are must-haves. Also try artichoke fritters with sundried tomato remoulade or grilled oysters with silky compound butter infused with fennel. With small plates priced $12- $15 and sides dishes a la carte, ordering multiple dishes is encouraged but not always rewarded; some dishes were overcooked, no longer hot or soggy from sitting too long. Still, the grilled octopus with spicy habanero sauce and mango-pineapple salsa was flavorful and the five-spice pork belly was deliciously crisp, fatty and juicy, thanks to 12-hour sous-vide cooking. The lived-in cozy cottage atmosphere of The Oyster Shell has been updated with a chic, ultramodern white and metal interior.

Food: . . . ½
Service: . . ½
Atmosphere: . . . .
Reviewed May 2016

Cabbage Key Resort and Restaurant, Mile Marker 60, Intracoastal Waterway; 283-2278.

Dining at Cabbage Key, located on a 100- acre island in Pine Island Sound, is one of the truly unique experiences in Southwest Florida. Its charm lies more in the old-Florida lodge setting than in the serviceable food, but the restaurant has mastered the science of briskly serving boatloads of day-tripping tourists and local anglers without giving them the bum’s rush. Your grilled mahi-mahi sandwich might be perfect on one visit and overdone on another, but the beers are always super-cold. Full bar.

Food: . . .
Service: . . . ½
Atmosphere: . . . .
Reviewed January 2016

Coconut Jack’s Waterfront Grille, 5370 Bonita Beach Road, Bonita Springs; 676-7777.

The screened deck overlooking the bay is expansive and incomparable – one of Coconut Jack’s main attractions. With appetizers in the $11.95-$15.95 range — relatively pricey — you might want to share them or make a lighter meal by sampling a few instead of ordering entrees, which can cost up to twice as much. We weren’t impressed by the restaurant’s watery take on ceviche, but the tequila oysters Rockefeller offered a clever and delectable twist on a traditional dish. Our main course also presented some surprises: a dry grouper fillet under a panko crust, ho-hum sides but surprisingly good baby back ribs (for a seafood restaurant, no less.) The barbecue sauce boasted layers of flavor with notes of sweetness, tang, tomato and molasses. Desserts are made locally but not here; the coconut cream pie from Dolly’s Produce Patch & Eatery is not to be missed. Full bar.

Food: . . .
Service: . . . ½
Atmosphere: . . . ½
Reviewed June 2016

Key to ratings

. . . . .Superb
. . . .Noteworthy
.. . . Good
. . Fair
. Poor