PAST REPASTS

. Azucar, 3326 Del Prado Blvd., Cape Coral; 549-2833. Here are some capsule summaries from previous reviews:

. Azucar, 3326 Del Prado Blvd., Cape Coral; 549-2833.

In Spanish, Azucar means sweet and that’s just what a meal at this lovely little family owned restaurant is. Hearty fare, sinfully rich desserts and soulful Cuban coffee are served by a friendly staff. A delicious and bountiful starter is the appetizer sampler platter, laden with fried shrimp, tamales, yucca, roasted pork, chicken wings and three sauces — mango-mustard, Creole and pineapple coconut. The paella Valenciana is a faithful version of the classic, with lots of chicken, shrimp, mussels, fish and a lobster tail, all perfectly cooked in saffron-scented rice. Also tasty and large is an entrée of roasted pork chunks with cuminlaced black beans and yellow rice. Dessert is a must here. Both the flan and a chocolate cake with a crunchy topping and a hint of anisette are superb, although it’s hard to pick just two from the dazzling bakery display. Beer and wine served.

. Biddle’s Restaurant and Piano Bar, 20351 Summerlin Road, Fort Myers; 433-4449. Food:     Service:  

½ Atmosphere:    

. Biddle’s Restaurant and Piano Bar, 20351 Summerlin Road, Fort Myers; 433-4449.

When the occasion calls for a cozy dinner for two, Biddle’s is a stylish and delicious choice. It’s lush without being fussy, with live music that complements the meal without overpowering conversation, a menu that does justice to surf and turf and a staff that aims to please. Biddle’s awardwinning tower of tuna is a delectable vertical structure composed of tuna and wakame surrounded by a moat of avocado salsa. Coconut shrimp devotees will enjoy Chef Bruno Ferreyra’s version, which comes with pools of tangy mustard-plum sauce. Grouper Veracruz — properly cooked fish accompanied by shrimp, green olives, tomatoes, spinach and crabmeat — is a showy dish full of great flavors and textures, and the Portobello strip steak with balsamic reduction, roasted red peppers and gorgonzola was richly satisfying. The signature dessert, a chocolate piano filled with zabaglione and fresh berries, strikes just the right chord on which to end the meal. Full bar.

. Blue Water Bistro, Coconut Point, 23151 Village Shops Way, Estero; 949-2583 Food:    ½ Service:   

Atmosphere:    ½

. Blue Water Bistro, Coconut Point, 23151 Village Shops Way, Estero; 949-2583

The newest of the Culinary Concepts restaurants, Blue Water Bistro fits in well with the contemporary look and feel of Coconut Point. A casual bistro specializing in seafood, there’s something for everyone on the menu. High points of a recent meal included craband lobster-stuffed pot stickers, crispy crunchy calamari, morning-after mussels, chicken limone and a delicious vegetable platter (create your own from the list of veggies and starches). Less successful was a nightly special of three white fish that came devoid of sauce or color. Pineapple upside down cake with rum raisin ice cream ended the meal nicely. Full bar.

. Chile Ranchero Restaurante y Taqueria, 11751 S. Cleveland Ave., Fort Myers; 275-0505. Food:    ½ Service:   

Atmosphere:    ½

. Chile Ranchero Restaurante y Taqueria, 11751 S. Cleveland Ave., Fort Myers; 275-0505.

. Sasse’s, 3651 Evans Ave., Fort Myers; 278-5544 Anyone who claims not to like Mexican food ought to try Chile Ranchero. Those who do like the real thing likely already have found this little gem of a restaurant that sits behind Kinko’s/ Fed Ex just off U.S. 41. The menu is wide-ranging, with dishes that may be new to non-Mexicans. But there’s also familiar territory — tacos, quesadillas and fajitas – although these, too, may be a variation from the U.S. usual. Tacos, for example, come with soft fragrant corn tortillas, not the ubiquitous brittle shells, and may be filled with higado (liver), lengua (tongue), pescado (fish), or adobada (marinated, steamed steak) as well as the usual suspects. A vegetable quesadilla with broccoli, red bell pepper, onions and cheese was excellent, as was the ceviche nachos, a feast of citrus-marinated fish and shrimp, avocado and diced tomatoes. The camarones al mojo de ajo (shrimp in butter, garlic and beer) was simple and delicious, while the parrillada ranchero, a sampler platter of grilled chicken, steak and chorizo sausage with roasted tomato sauce, was gargantuan and equally well executed, although the sausage was a bit crumbly. The sensuously rich flan with real whipped cream is a must for dessert.

Food:     Service:   

Atmosphere:    ½

. Sasse’s, 3651 Evans Ave., Fort Myers; 278-5544

Sasse’s is kinder and gentler since Barbara and Jerry Snyderman bought it a few years back. Both credit cards and reservations are accepted and servers, chefs and management go out of their way to make everyone welcome. And if that’s not enough, the kitchen is at the top of its game. This outpost of refined Italian cuisine has long been known for its gargantuan portions and that hasn’t changed. From the big bowl of perfectly steamed mussels in a white wine broth to the freshly baked bread shrimp Parmigiana and braised lamb shank, every dish was expertly seasoned, cooked and plated. Save room for dessert. The crème brulee was an exercise in delicious decadence and the flourless chocolate cake was dark, dense and intensely satisfying. Expect to take home leftovers. It’s a Sasse’s tradition. Beer and wine served.

Food:     ½ Service:   

 Atmosphere:    