VINO

This is the time of year when even people who don’t drink sparkling wines not only imbibe, but find themselves faced with buying them, too. As if champagne isn’t confusing enough, add in all the other varieties now on the market and it’s enough to drive a man or woman to drink.

The fact is, sparkling wines are made just about everywhere. There are two ways to get the bubbles into the bottle.

The traditional method is called methode

champenoise. The young bottled wine is opened, dosed with a sugar and yeast solution, and then corked and secured with a wire basket. The best known is champagne, which comes from France’s Champagne district and is made only with pinot noir, pinot meunier or chardonnay grapes.

The second way to add bubbles is the charmat, or Martinotti method, in which the wine is allowed to ferment a second time in a temperature- and pressure-controlled stainless steel container called an autoclave. This process is faster and less expensive then the champagne method, but there can be some trade-off in quality.

Amanda Mihalik, Gina Burch and Patty George at Austin’s Wine Cellar. JIM MCCRACKEN/FLORIDA WEEKLY In general, you’ll pay more for champagne than other sparklers, but don’t discount the others just because they aren’t champagne. Here is a look at some other worthy contenders.

• Cava is produced in Spain and is second only to champagne in worldwide sales of sparkling wines, according to the official Spanish Institute for Foreign Trade Web site, www.winesfromspain. com. Cava is also produced using the methode champenoise. Traditional Spanish grape varieties are the principal grapes used, although chardonnay and pinot noir are also permitted.

• Prosecco is an off-dry selection from Italy made in the charmat method. It’s made primarily from the white prosecco grape but others may be blended in.

• Spumante from Italy encompasses many wines, ranging from dry to sweet. Some are made in the traditional bottle method, like asti spumante, and some are made in the charmat method.

A tasting is an excellent way to try wines before buying. I recently attended a pre-holiday sparkling wine tasting at Austin’s Wine Cellar in Fort Myers, where owner Frank Pulice poured a variety of sparklers for several area wine enthusiasts.

“When you hear that cork pop, you know it is excitement,” said Gina Birch. “Something good is on the way!”

Her friend, Patty George, agreed that sparkling wines are, indeed, special. “They’re decadent and fun and make every day special,” she said.

Phil Pfahlert was impressed with the Jansz Rose, made in Tasmania. “They are the most labor-intensive wines to make,” he said about sparkling wines in general. “The vintner has to put his heart and soul into the wine, and in a wellmade sparkling wine you can almost taste that energy.”

Thom McKay, sommelier at The Wine Merchant in Naples, had some good suggestions as well. At his shop we tasted a French non-champagne, Francois Montand Brut Blanc de Blanc, with customers Lynn and Jack Crotty of St. John, Ind.

“It’s refreshing and crisp but not real dry. It would make an excellent aperitif,” Mr. McKay said. Made with 100 percent chardonnay grapes in the traditional champagne method, it sells for $13. “I’d like this in a mimosa,” Mrs. Crotty said. “And I really like this price.”

Good holiday sparklers need not cost a fortune. Following are some noteworthy ones from the Austin’s tasting, with a final one from Mr. McKay. A knowledgeable salesperson at your local wine shop can add to the list.

• Juve Y Camps Brut Rose NV: A Spanish cava, it’s 100 percent pinot noir. A creamy mousse delivers a bouquet of fresh flowers and strawberry that follows through onto the palate. It ends with a light acid and long finish. About $21.

• Jansz Premium Non-Vintage Rose is a Tasmanian selection that is a medium pink rose with smooth creamy bubbles, a rose petal bouquet and strawberry on the palate. This wine is definitely worth searching for. A clear crowd favorite at the tasting, it’s about $29.

• Langlois Crémant de Loire Blanc Brut NV is made from chenin blanc, chardonnay and cabernet franc. Produced by Langlois-Château in the Loire district, the bouquet has flowers and a little peach fruit. The taste is light and vibrant with a touch of sweetness from the cabernet franc. About $35.

• Louis Roederer Carte Blanche NV is pricier, as you would expect from a champagne. This demi-sec is made a touch sweeter and works as an aperitif or a dessert champagne. The big, flowery nose opens with a touch of honey, followed by a delicious, mouth-filling flavor with a touch of sweet citrus. A very elegant wine, priced about $55.

• Monmousseau Cuvee JM Touraine NV is 100 percent chenin blanc from the Loire Valley. It has a light, fruity nose with clean acid and a touch of almond on the palate. About $18. 