Delicious Things holds recipe for River District success

The name tells only a small portion of Delicious Things’ story.

At about five years of age, it’s become a downtown fixture, a place that can be relied upon for gracious service, good food and, even more of a rarity, to be open when you want to eat. Lunch on Saturday? Open. Sunday brunch? Open. Dinner Sunday? Open. A late-evening meal or coffee and dessert? Yep, those too.

It even maintained that schedule when construction all but shut down First Street, rendering it a mass of dust, fences, deafening equipment and metal access ramps. But in the tradition of what doesn’t kill you makes you stronger, Delicious Things carried on and now has an expansive outdoor dining space as a reward for its endurance.

Whether you dine indoors or out, the delicious things for which it’s named are primarily Italian in nature, although Monday nights feature an additional German menu (honoring owner Torsten Josupeit’s homeland) and a variety of salads and sandwiches for lunch.

KAREN FELDMEN/ FLORIDA WEEKLY Slices of ripe tomato and fresh mozzarella alternate to create a colorful and delicious caprese salad. Lasagna Bolognese combines a tomato and meat sauce with broad sheets of pasta and just enough cheese for a dish that’s a refreshing change from the standard. The Italian dishes that form the backbone of the menu aren’t the marinara heavy pound-of-pasta variety found in so many establishments. Chef Susi Koch, who is also German, gives the menu a lighter touch through the use of lots of fresh vegetables and moderate amounts of silky smooth tomato sauce rendered kinder and gentler with a touch of cream.

The freshness of the ingredients is evident in the vibrant mozzarella caprese ($11.90), a classic dish that features alternating slices of ripe tomatoes and cheese accompanied by arugula, basil, balsamic vinegar and olive oil. It’s plenty for two to share.

Diners who need to get in and out relatively quickly should refrain from ordering the gorgonzola-stuffed chicken or the lasagna Bolognese, which require longer cooking times than most of the other dishes. However, I can attest to the fact that both are worth waiting for.

I’ve had the chicken on previous visits and it’s an excellent dish, the rich cheese oozing out of the middle of a moist breast of chicken, accompanied by a melange of fresh vegetables.

On my most recent visit, I opted for the lasagna Bolognese ($19), an elegant

variation of what most people know as a cheese- and meat-laden dish. This version features the house-made Bolognese meat sauce that’s simmered slowly for several hours, giving it a fragrant, mellow aroma and taste. It’s layered with broad lasagna noodles and some cheese but is far more tender and light than the variety to which most people are accustomed.

My companion had another menu standard: shrimp and scallops with over pasta ($28.90). The large shrimp and sweet scallops shared the place with rutabaga, green beans, peas and just enough of the house’s creamy tomato sauce.

For dessert, we shared a large piece of tiramisu that had all the requisite components—a light cake, a dusting of cocoa, chocolate sauce and lots of fluffy, rich cream to hold is all together.

Delicious Things’ wine list isn’t large but it’s well chosen with almost all selections available by the glass. The current house red is an inexpensive Argentinean wine, Tierra de Luna 2008, which is 80 percent syrah and 20 percent malbec.

With a fruit core and some spicy notes, it paired well with the caprese as well as the tomato sauces served on our entrees.

What adds to this restaurant’s appeal is its sophisticated but serene décor. There’s a modicum of sound absorption, something that appears anathema to many restaurateurs these days who seem to think that forcing customers to shout at one another over the din makes for a more exciting, with-it atmosphere. Count me out on that trend.

Tables are substantial, made of wood and tile insets. The floors are a sandy hued wood, the walls have a soft terra-cotta pattern sponged on and a high unfinished ceiling adds a spacious feel. The outdoor tables are shaded by large umbrellas and afford prime people watching, especially on busy weekend evenings.

If there’s one thing that would improve this accomplished restaurant it would be some additions to the menu. It’s remained relatively unchanged since before Mr. Josupeit and his former wife, Ines, bought the place more than two years ago. The appetizers and salads need broadening (although the restaurant’s signature tomato-pepper soup is terrific and should never be tampered with) and the entrée list could use some surprises.

Our server told me Mr. Josupeit plans to debut a new menu sometime after Thanksgiving. The addition of more delicious things will surely delight the restaurant’s loyal following and likely draw still more fans to this downtown survivor. 