PAST REPASTS

Here are some capsule summaries from previous reviews:

. A Table Apart, 4295 Bonita Beach Road, Bonita Springs; 221-8540 . A Table Apart, 4295 Bonita Beach Road, Bonita Springs; 221-8540

The décor’s not fancy but it is warm and inviting with light jazz and soft lights creating an oasis that’s well-suited to dining well. The menu showcases chef/ owner Jeffrey Acol’s imaginative style. That features surprising innovations, such as fried calamari coated with nam pla (fermented fish sauce) served with Thai dressing, and fries gussied up with herbs, Parmesan cheese and white truffle oil. The chilled summer soup tasted of the ripe ovenroasted tomatoes from which it was made, enhanced with a bit of wasabi and cucumber ribbons. Organic salmon prepared two ways — lightly blackened and topped with citrus salmon ceviche — with a yuzu beurre blanc and blazing purple microgreens was downright exciting. Mr. Acol lightens up a ribeye by replacing potatoes with a refreshing Mediterranean cucumber salad. There’s no skimping on dessert here. Both the elegant chocolate mousse and fresh brownie with ice cream were worth every calorie. Wine and beer served.

. Cantina Laredo, 200 Big Pine Way, Fort Myers, FL 33907-59; 415- 4424. Food:     ½ Service:    

Atmosphere:    ½

. Cantina Laredo, 200 Big Pine Way, Fort Myers, FL 33907-59; 415- 4424.

Cantina Laredo’s guacamole changed my mind about a dip I always thought of as bland and uninteresting. Servers create it tableside, scooping out ripe avocado then adding jalapenos, spices, cilantro, lime juice and tomatoes to the customers’ tastes. It’s heavenly, especially when accompanied by a margarita made with one of the top-flight varieties available here. (The anejo Cabo Wabo’s a winner.) Entrees of shrimp poblano chimichanga as well as a sampler platter containing a beef taco, chile relleno, tamale and chicken enchilada were hot, fresh and perfectly seasoned. And, for dessert, you can’t go wrong with the flan, the Mexican brownie or the warm apple pie topped with vanilla or cinnamon ice cream. Both the vigilant service and the well-appointed dining room of this lively Tex-Mex restaurant make it a great place for a festive night out. Open daily for lunch and dinner. Full bar.

. Chef Brooke’s Natural Café, 1850 Boy Scout Drive, Fort Myers; 332-2433 . Chef Brooke’s Natural Café, 1850 Boy Scout Drive, Fort Myers; 332-2433

Natural and healthy can also be delicious, as Chef Brooke Wagenheim proves in her cozy and comforting café. Raw foodists and vegans get their due here but so do omnivores, making it a great choice for a mixed crowd. Both the tomato and chicken soups were full of bright flavors and fresh ingredients. Eggplant parmigiana possessed a hemp and flax seed coating instead of bread crumbs, adding nutrients to the cheesy, rich dish topped with tomato sauce. Coconut chicken boasted Indian seasonings and fragrances that paired well with navy beans and rice. Fresh organic salads came with both entrees. Desserts include cookies, scones and such, but we tried a moist mango cake and a chewy cinnamon-infused Mexican brownie. Fruit and soft drinks served.

. Stevie Tomato’s Sports Page, 814 Pine Island Road, Cape Coral; 573-7877 Food:     Service:    

Atmosphere:    

. Stevie Tomato’s Sports Page, 814 Pine Island Road, Cape Coral; 573-7877

. Two Meatballs in the Kitchen, Bella Villa Shops, 8890 Salrose Lane, Fort Myers; 489-1111 Sports bars abound in these parts but you don’t have to like sports to be a fan of Stevie Tomato’s. Besides a dizzying array of televisions broadcasting games, it also has a staff of well-trained pros, a voluminous and well-executed menu and a family friendly atmosphere. Customers eat free on their birthdays; kids eat free on Wednesdays. The Stevie’s on Pine Island Road is a spacious building that allows diners some separation from the lively bar. The chicken wings were crisp, slightly spicy, garlicky and delicious. The Say it Twice mahi mahi sandwich prepared jerk style (grilled and blackened are available, too) was nicely seasoned and came on Texas toast with a generous side of crisp curly fries. A mushroom and Swiss burger contained a big char-grilled Angus beef burger on a sesame bun accompanied by delicious regular fries and a crunchy dill pickle. The brownie mug — with brownie, ice cream and whipped cream stacked in a beer mug — was a great dessert for two.

KAREN FELDMAN / FLORIDA WEEKLY Chef Jeff Acol at A Table Apart blackens organic salmon, then tops it with citrus salmon ceviche. Food:     ½ Service:    

Atmosphere:    ½

. Two Meatballs in the Kitchen, Bella Villa Shops, 8890 Salrose Lane, Fort Myers; 489-1111

Long-time local restaurateur Sal Basile and his kids have created a classy, casual winner with Two Meatballs, named for his son, Alex, and sonin law, Paul Torocco. Hot garlic rolls start every meal, whether it’s a wellrendered pizza, meatball sub or fullfledged entrée. The fried calamari with a perfectly balanced marinara sauce is a house specialty. Wild mushroom ravioli with a delicate pesto cream were tender and flavorful; the veal Marsala was tender and savory, accompanied by broccolini and red potatoes. A bountiful slab of creamy, dreamy tiramisu was perfect for sharing. The young service staff was eager to please and worked hard to make customers feel welcome. Beer and wine.

Food:     Service:    ½

Atmosphere:    