VINO

The official start of summer seems somewhat anticlimactic when Florida air conditioners have been running full tilt for weeks now.

Odds are you've already lightened up your wardrobe and food choices. It makes sense that you give your wine choices the same treatment.

That doesn't mean abandoning red wines altogether. Still, it's a good time of the year to try some lighter-bodied varieties, perhaps a white or rose. But there are some just-right-for-summer reds, too, that have less alcohol and aren't quite so weighty.

"I really like rose wines for the summertime," says Thom McKay, sommelier at The Wine Merchant in Naples. "There are some really great ones, and they're big enough to pair well with steaks as well as seafood."

He's not alone. Frank Pulice, proprietor of Austin's Wine Cellar in Fort Myers, appears to be on much the same wavelength.

"The Elizabeth Rose is a very nice but unusual wine," he says. "You do not normally see a syrah rose, and it can pair up with anything on the grill."

Sukie Honeycutt of Tony's Off Third in Naples cited three wines she's enjoying now at home, including a white and a rose. Her picks follow along with those of Mr. Pulice, Mr. McKay, a couple of sources from further afield and yours truly.

Nine Stones Hilltop Shiraz bottle . NINE STONES WINERY / COURTESY PHOTO Whites:

• Pirineos Mesache Blanco 2006 - Refreshing Spanish white made from gewürztraminer, chardonnay and macabeo (think sparkling Cava) grapes. Refreshing, with floral and citrus and a little white stone fruit, finishing with a little spice. This wine is crisp and bright. Tasting notes from Mr. Pulice. About $15.

• Girard Sauvignon Blanc 2007 - This 100 percent sauvignon blanc from Napa Valley has a great balance of fruit and acidity. It is a smooth, sleek wine and is not tart or sweet, just beautifully laid-back. Clean, crisp and nice fruit. Tasting notes from Ms. Honeycutt, who adds, "Be sure to tell your readers I drink this at home." About $19.

• La Marca Prosecco NV - This Italian sparkler has the fragrance and flavor of tropical fruits. It's crisp and fresh, with an effervescence that keeps it alive and active. A good thirst quencher. Tasting notes from Mr. Pulice. About $20.

• Chateau Ste. Michelle Eroica Riesling 2007 - With crisp acidity, this Eroica delivers mandarin orange and sweet lime aromas and flavors with subtle mineral notes. "I have it found this wine to be an amazing pairing with sweet, flavorful Dungeness crab." Tasting notes from Bob Bertheau, head winemaker of Chateau Ste. Michelle, on the winemaker's Web site. Both Wine Spectator and Wine Advocate give it 91 points. About $25.

• Joh. Jos. Prum Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Kabinett 2007 - One of my personal favorites from Germany's Mosel district, from arguably the best vineyard in the country. A floral nose and apple and peach flavors marry with the characteristic lush feeling and taste of fine a German Riesling. A light zing of citrus with a long finish. Tasting notes from Jim McCracken. About $40.

Roses:

• Atticus 2007 Pinot Noir Rosé - A wonderful Oregonian wine, it has a big nose with strawberry and tropical fruits and is smooth on the finish. This is big enough to stand up to steak like a filet or maybe lamb, but delicate enough for fish. Tasting notes from Mr. McKay. About $18.

• Dolium Malbec Rosé 2007 - Beautiful rosé from Argentina, raspberry spice and honey flavors. Great with red meats as well as seafood. Tasting notes from Mr. McKay. About $13.

• Portal del Montsant "Brunus" Rosé 2008 - Spanish rose from 100 percent grenache. Rich color with wonderful strawberry and raspberry flavors and a little spice. A refreshing dry wine that's great with grilled fish. Tasting notes from Ms. Honeycutt. About $25.

• Elizabeth Rosé Napa Rosé 2008 - An interesting blend of mostly syrah with some zinfandel. This wine is fragrant and flavorful with juicy strawberries and light acidity. The finish goes on forever. (The vineyards are certified organic.) Tasting notes from Mr. Pulice. About $20.

• Vina La Posada Cabernet Sauvignon Rosé 2007 - This Chilean rose is rich in color and has raspberry, blackberry and strawberry flavors. Great with ribeye or a pepper steak, it's also a great value. Tasting notes from Mr. McKay. About $10.

Reds:

• Wild Earth Pinot Noir 2006 - This wine shows great balance between the rich fruit and tannins, with a nice complex finish. The only reds I drink in the summer are pinot noir, and this is a great selection from New Zealand. Tasting notes from Ms. Honeycutt. About $29.

• Nine Stones Shiraz Hilltops 2007 - "Ripe and generous, this Australian red shows a minerally edge to the blackberry and cardamom flavors, remaining open and inviting through the long, deftly balanced finish. Drink now through 2017."

Tasting notes from Wine Spectator, rated 90 points. Listed as a Best Buy in the upcoming July 31, 2009 issue. About $20.