PAST REPASTS

KAREN FELDMAN / FLORIDA WEEKLY A sampling of specialty rolls and sushi at Blu Sushi.

Blu Sushi, Gulf Coast Town Center, 10045 Gulf Center Drive, Fort Myers; 334-BLU3 (2583)

The third time is the charm when it comes to Blu Sushi. Although both the original Fort Myers and the subsequent Naples locations remain chic spots to savor sushi, I think the newest Blu is the most attractive and has the best service. Its Art Deco styling full of sharp angles, undulating curves and geometric patterns serves as a visually interesting counterpoint to the sea-blue walls. The cocktail list contains lots of favorites — mojitos, martinis and the like — as well as some creative offerings, such as the Mango X Rated (X-Rated vodka with mango and blood orange juice). And then there's the food. We sampled miso, shrimp-stuffed gyoza and sunomono with cucumber salad, ponzu and sesame seed, all of which were first rate. Tuna and egg nigiri were fresh and three rolls — the Crunchy, with smoked salmon and crab stick with crunchy tempura flakes; the Seaside, with yellowtail, tuna and asparagus; and the Lava Drops, crab and spicy mayo in a tempura crust — were lovely and delicious. Full bar.

Blu Sushi,

Crave, Bridge Plaza, 12901 McGregor Blvd., Fort Myers; 466-4663

What a great name for this unobtrusive little gem tucked into the Bridge Plaza not far from Nomiki's Plaka and Café Cibo. Try it once and chances are you'll return.

With just 10 tables and three booths, a large chalkboard for daily specials and a minimalist décor, it's the food that shines here, just as chef/owner Sean Gavin intended. Dinner includes standards such as mac and cheese, roasted chicken and meatloaf. 

I liked the Crave dip, specialty rolls and with shrimp, crab, Sushi. spinach, mushrooms and cheese, as well as the goat cheese mac and cheese. The three-way duck is a tasty and imaginative entrée and the salmon was delicious with a raspberry vodka martini sauce. Don't skip dessert: the trio of cupcakes (red velvet, chocolate with raspberry sauce and vanilla with chocolate sauce) was a standout. Beer and wine.

Crave, Bridge Plaza,

La Trattoria Café Napoli, 12377 S. Cleveland Ave., Fort Myers; 931-0050

It's hard to categorize this little lowkey storefront just one door away from Austin's Wine Cellar. The food is an amalgamation inspired by the experiences of chef/owner Gloria Cabral-Jordan, who is Cuban born and raised, now an American citizen by way of Sweden, Spain and the Dominican Republic. The 26-seat restaurant has attracted quite a following of food lovers drawn to Cabral-Jordan's charming hospitality and dishes such as paella Valenciana a la Cabral, fresh fish in salsa verde, and beef tenderloin pan seared with a sherry reduction, cloves, junipers and green onions. Dessert — especially the flan — is a must. Beer and wine served.

The Sandy Butler, 17650 San Carlos Blvd., Fort Myers Beach; 482-6765. It's a restaurant. It's a bar. It's a produce market, deli and bakery. Dinner here is a departure from the customary beach fare. An appetizer of blackened sea scallops over a ginger caramel sauce proved delicious, the large scallops cooked just enough and napped in a sauce that didn't overwhelm the delicate shellfish. A crab cake billed as sweet and spicy was also quite large, laden with big chunks of crab. I suppose that was the sweet part because the pink-hued sauce was fiery hot. Both came with lovely fuchsia orchids on the plate. The rack of lamb crusted with hazelnuts and Dijon mustard consisted of five chops, delicately seasoned and cooked to a blushing medium. Grouper topped with a sweet red pepper and balsamic sauce was good, although the wild mushrooms beneath were a bit chewy. From the hostess to the server to the manager, everyone was warm and hospitable.

La Trattoria Café Napoli,

Yabo, 16681 McGregor Blvd., Fort Myers; 225-YABO (225-9226). When multiple professional chefs and restaurateurs sing the praises of a competitor, it's worth checking out. Yabo is one of these, a little throwback to the flower-childstyle cafes of the '60s, with live acoustic music, walls full of musical memorabilia, a mere handful of tables and a blacked out front window. In this nostalgic setting, chef/owner Ryan Kida conjures up classic Italian fare — lasagna Bolognese, linguine with clam sauce, gnocchi — as well as contemporary favorites such as blackened jumbo scallops and filet medallions with spinach, portobellos and gorgonzola demi-glace. Beer and wine served.

The Sandy Butler, Yabo,