South African wines gaining enthusiastic American following

Africa.

The word conjures up images of lush jungles, herds of wildebeests galloping over open plains and possibly that dethroned Nigerian prince who keeps e-mailing you. For discerning oenophiles, it also calls to mind wine. Very good wine.

Don't take my word for it. Here's what the big boys are saying:

• South African wine imports have grown from virtually zero to more than 1

million cases annually in five years, Wine

Business Monthly reports.

• Wine Spectator's April 30 cover story, "Stretch Your Wine Dollars," reported that South African wines combine New World-style fruit and Old World-style structure and minerality, providing quality and great value.

• New York Times wine writer Eric Asimov says South Africa is "unequivocally one of the best sources on the planet for moderately priced cabernet sauvignon."

• Last week, trend watchers Mike Ginley of Next Level Marketing and David Pennachetti of Wine Guru Services told those attending the International Wine, Spirits and Beer Event in Chicago that South African varieties rank among the hottest wine trends this year.

PHOTO COURTESY TERRY SEITZ INC Peter Finlayson, winemaker of Bouchard Finlayson. JIM MCCRACKEN / FLORIDA WEEKLY It's not that South Africa just started making wines. It's just that Americans have only had access to those wines since the mid-1990s, after South Africa did away with apartheid and the United States lifted its embargo.

Peter Finlayson, winemaker of Bouchard Finlayson, a boutique winery west of Cape Town, says the country's wine industry dates back 350 years. "That is part of our culture," he says.

Pressed on which of his wines is his favorite, Mr. Finlayson says, "All are my children and creations, it makes it hard to choose." In general, however, he's particularly fond of pinot noir. "It is like an opera," he says. "When it is great, it is pure seduction. When it is mediocre, it is not worth listening to."

Vineyards in South Africa are predominantly clay shale, producing wines that are "mineral and different, everything a wine should be," says Thom McKay of The Wine Merchant in Naples. In the past year, he's increased his inventory, now offering about 15 boutique estate selections.

"The climate is in tune with the whites," making them ideal for drinking with seafood, says Bob Mulroy, managing partner of The Joint at Cape Harbour.

Terry Seitz, who lives on Boca Grande, is a wine importer who specializes in South African wines. After launching a furniture manufacturing company in South Africa in the early 1990s, he fell in love with the country and its wines. He started importing them four years ago.

His sales and distribution manager, Linda Bragaw, urged me to put some South African wines to the test.

Weekly held its first consumer test panel earlier this month, blind-tasting six South African wines: Bouchard Finlayson Blanc de Mer 2007, Hartenberg Weisser Riesling 2007, Fantail Pinotage Rose 2008, Morgenhof Estate Premier Selection 2001, Post House Penny Black 2006 and Bouchard Finlayson Hannibal 2006. All ranked good to great in quality.

Placing third was Bouchard Finlayson's Hannibal, a rich blend of sangiovese, petite syrah, pinot noir and nebbiolo with a touch of mourvedre.

Second place went to Morgenhof Estate wine, a stylish blend of merlot, cabernet franc and cabernet sauvignon.

The winner was Post House Penny Black, an elegant mixture of shiraz, merlot, cabernet sauvignon and petite verdot. Penny Black is the name of the world's first adhesive postage stamp. Mr. Seitz says his late mother loved this wine so much that when she died, a bottle was buried with her at Arlington National Cemetery.

Obviously the test panel agreed with her.

These wines are imported in limited quantities and are available at some restaurants and fine wine shops. Frank Pulice of Austin's Wine Cellar carries some South African wines and can order any of those tested upon request.

Special thanks to Terry Seitz and Linda Bragaw for supplying the wines, and Frank Pulice for graciously hosting the tasting.

Panel members included: Lou Bernardi, Sandra Bowers, Jerry Greenfield, Mitch Haley, Rose O'Dell King, Frank Pulice, Chuck Rakos, Linda Rakos and Shannon Yates.

Anyone interested in serving on a future tasting panel can drop me a note at vino@ floridaweekly.com. You don't have to be a wine expert, just someone who enjoys drinking it.

Wine picks of the week

>>Post House Penny Black 2006: Dark inky color with floral nose, black currant and spice flavors. Firm, supple tannins give a long, lingering finish. About $25.

>>Morgenhof Estate Premier Selection 2001: A classic Bordeaux blend with intense dark red ruby color, dark chocolate and cherry flavors and a lingering aftertaste. About $35.

>>Bouchard Finlayson Hannibal 2006: Concentrated dark purple color with black cherry, raspberry and a medium finish. About $35.