Hotel Indigo's Vino de Notte strives to inspire

karenFELDMAN cuisine@floridaweekly.com Right off I'll confess to have rolled my eyes and stifled a snort when I called Vino de Notte to make a reservation.

"How may I inspire you?" asked the ultracheery voice at the other end of the phone.

"Uh, how about with some reservations for 7 tonight?" I replied, attempting to return that upbeat tone without giggling.

She was happy to accommodate me, which may not have been inspiring but was gratifying.

It wasn't until I'd experienced a meal and toured the Hotel Indigo, with which it's affiliated, that I began to grasp just what that simple but unexpected phrase meant.

That another Italian restaurant in a town overrun with them can prove inspiring speaks to the quality and style of what's offered in this stylish and creative newcomer.

The restaurant, which opened in March in the historic Collier Arcade building adjoining the hotel in the city's River District, mixes contemporary charm with a soupcon of nostalgia in the form of mural-sized black and white images taken decades ago just steps away from the dining room. One shows the long, silver counter — complete with napkin dispensers and condiments — of the defunct Snack House, long a popular hangout for local movers and shakers. On a back wall there's a vast shot of the building's exterior taken sometime in the 1930s, judging by the cluster of early-model black cars.

. Thick , double-cu t lam b chops top a mound of creamy mashed potatoes served with a port wine sauce. KAREN FELDMAN/FLORIDA WEEKLY The dining room, most recently a casual French bakery and cafe, has been transformed by someone with an eye for impact and drama. The formerly pale yellow walls now are stark white, providing a bright canvas for the photos and setting off the vivid red menu covers, red napkins, the servers' red aprons and the lone blue bottle of sparkling water placed on each table to provide a small splash of color.

Service is refined and polished. The hostess, manager and servers are well versed on the menu and in the niceties of hospitality. Executive Chef Rocco Pisera, who has crafted an out-of-the-ordinary — yes, I'd call it inspired — lineup of dishes, works the room when there's a lull in the kitchen and socializes with guests at the chef's table, which faces the kitchen and is designed especially for single diners.

Somehow the restaurant manages to exude an upscale air yet remains a place in which customers can feel comfortable in casual clothes while ordering a pizza or panini if that's what they want.

Both the pizzas and panini looked tempting but must wait for a return visit. On this night, we'd come for a full-fledged dinner and the offerings there were equally intriguing .

Lovers of Italian fare will find familiar territory at Vino de Notte but Pisera adds creative touches that give dishes fresh appeal. Fried calamari, for example, comes with

marinara sauce and spicy aioli. The spinach salad includes pancetta lardons, apple, gorgonzola and mushrooms. Herb-crusted tuna is accompanied by warm fennel salad and parsley oil.

We pondered the menu while enjoying a Piedmont wine, Boroli Quattro Fratelli Barbera d'Alba, with a vivid ruby hue, fruit and tobacco aromas, and blackberries, raspberries and a touch of vanilla on the palate.

While my companion quickly settled on the calamari, I was torn between the night's special soup — roasted beet — and the veal and ricotta meatballs. Our server said the meatballs are among his favorite dishes on the menu and suggested we split a beet salad. Being able to have my beets and meatballs, too, sounded ideal.

While we awaited the appetizers, our server brought me a sample of the beet soup, which contained sweet beets in a warm, savory broth that complemented one another nicely.

I had to agree with him, however, about the meatballs. A serving contained three golf-ball-sized orbs that were tender, creamy and lightly spiced, accompanied by a silky tomato-cream sauce.

The calamari consisted of a generous portion of crisp rings and tentacles drizzled with a spicy aioli that gave it a surprising bite at the finish. A thick marinara provided a mild counterpoint.

Splitting the beet salad provided plenty for both of us. The yellow beets looked beautiful and tasted even better in combination with smooth goat cheese, toasted walnuts, arugula and a light dressing of balsamic vinegar.

From the entrees, we selected double-cut lamb chops and pan-seared scallops. The chops, ordered medium, were quite thick and so were a bit rare within. They were tender, however, and were lightly seasoned, so that the lamb's natural flavor wasn't overpowered. Mashed potatoes and a port wine sauce were splendid companions.

The scallops provided something of a surprise when they arrived in a demi glace of which the menu made no mention. Because my companion doesn't eat meat (or sauces made from it), we had to send it back to the kitchen. Both the server and the chef moved quickly to correct the problem, asking if he'd like a white wine and garlic sauce instead, which he said would suit him fine. The new dish was swiftly prepared, although the server offered to return my lamb to the kitchen to keep it warm if I wanted to wait.

While I'd recommend that restaurants provide such information on menus, especially when mixing seafood and meat, I'd also suggest that those with any dietary restrictions inform their servers before ordering. That might not eliminate such problems entirely, but would help reduce them.

The scallops were large, sweet and tender, and the sauce worked well with them, as did the creamy potatoes.

For dessert, we shared a slice of banana ricotta cheesecake. Ricotta is much lighter than cream cheese and this cheesecake was delicious with its fruit flavors, creamy texture, drizzle of espresso sauce and berries.

It was a delightful dinner from start to finish, even factoring in the scallops issue. As in most aspects of life, it's unrealistic to expect perfection. How a restaurant handles unforeseen problems is a much more valuable measure and this team knew exactly how to make things right.

After dinner, we headed up to Hotel Indigo's roof to take a look at Phi, the new open-air bar and the view of the city it affords. Next time, we'll start with a rooftop cocktail followed by further exploration of Vino de Notte's menu. Having experienced Vino de Notte and taking a look at the wellappointed hotel, it's clear there was inspiration involved in the creation and there continues to be a full measure of it in the staff's approach to hospitality.