PAST REPASTS

An apple-pecan tart with vanilla ice cream and . caramel sauce is among the homemade desserts offered at Artistic Deli. KAREN FELDMAN / FLORIDA WEEKLY Artistic Deli, 4391 Colonial Blvd., Fort Myers; 939-3354

The name is an apt description for this imaginative newcomer on Colonial Boulevard just west of the Winkler Avenue Extension. By day, it's a deli serving wellmade sandwiches, soups and salads, but it morphs into a creative restaurant by night. Chef/owner Brian McCarley makes everything from scratch and it shows. From the five onion gratin soup to the diver scallops with tomato fennel compote, bread pudding and apple-pecan tart with caramel sauce and vanilla ice cream, each dish is artistically created and plated. The open kitchen, an eclectic mix of framed art on the walls and soft jazz playing in the background create a pleasurable atmosphere that complements the food. Service is welcoming and attentive, and the prices are modest considering the caliber of the food. Beer and wine served.

Azucar, 3326 Del Prado Blvd., Cape Coral; 549-02833.

In Spanish, Azucar means sweet and that's just what a meal at this lovely little family owned restaurant is. Hearty fare, sinfully rich desserts and soulful Cuban coffee are served by a friendly staff. A delicious and bountiful starter is the appetizer sampler platter, laden with fried shrimp, tamales, yucca, roasted pork, chicken wings along with three sauces - mangomustard, Creole and pineapple coconut. The paella Valenciana is a faithful version of the classic, with lots of chicken, shrimp, mussels, fish and a lobster tail, all perfectly cooked in rice made fragrant with saffron and white wine. Another entrée of roasted pork chunks with cuminlaced black beans and yellow rice is also tasty and large. Dessert is a must here. Both the flan and a chocolate cake with a crunchy topping and a hint of anisette are superb, although it was hard to pick just two from the dazzling array in the bakery. Open daily for breakfast, lunch and dinner. Beer and wine served. Ratings:

French Connection, 2288 First St., Fort Myers; 332-4443

This downtown survivor has been serving quiche, crepes and sandwiches for more than two decades. The menu expanded when the restaurant shut down for several months a couple of years ago and reopened with a much improved dining room and a larger kitchen. Large windows framed with tiny white lights and two colorful giant frogs on the walls lend a festive air to the stylish décor and roomy bar. The spinach and artichoke dip appetizer is a great starter

Artistic Deli, that's big enough for two or three to share. A grilled ribeye was properly grilled, moist and tender while the grilled mahi mahi was a little overdone and needed sauce. The chocolate crepe — a long-time specialty of the house — ends dinner on a sweet note. Full bar. Serves lunch and dinner Monday through Saturday.

Traditions Restaurant, Island Inn, 3111 W. Gulf Drive, Sanibel; 472-1561

Once a private club, the historic Island Inn is now open to the public, including its waterfront restaurant, Traditions. The chef's "award-winning New England clam chowder" is worthy of the designation. A nightly special of steamed mussels is another satisfying appetizer. Asian twiceroasted half semi-boned Long island duckling with raspberry and orange ginger sauce is nicely balanced, accompanied by a little spring roll and fresh vegetables. The sushi grade tuna steak came out a perfect medium rare, napped with a delicate Key lime beurre blanc. A slice of pumpkin pie finishes the meal off nicely. The service staff is expertly trained, right down to the wine service. Full bar.

Azucar, Vapiano, Gulf Coast Town Center, Alico Road and Ben Hill Griffin Parkway, Fort Myers; 454-1066

Leave it to the Germans to reinvent the Italian restaurant. Vapiano — which loosely translated means laid back — is a hip pizza, pasta and salad joint with a full bar. Customers get a Chipcard when they enter, which they use at each station (pasta, pizza, salad) to purchase whatever they want. They swipe the card, the staff creates their order from scratch and customers then take their meals to a table. I can highly recommend the rucola ravioli — pasta stuffed with arugula, then topped with tomatoes, arugula and pine nuts. A thin-crusted pizza with figs, prosciutto and honey is good, too, as is the fresh and bountiful salad. Gathering a meal takes a bit of effort, but the result is delicious and moderately priced. Full bar.

French Connection, Traditions Restaurant, Vapiano,