No one would consider taking along their own entrée when they dine out, but wine is another matter altogether.

There was a time when restaurants frowned on such practices and charged hefty corkage fees for the privilege, if they allowed it all. These days, if there's an up side to the economic downturn, it's that restaurants are happy people show up. If customers wish to bring their own wine, well that's just fine. Bottle-toting patrons may pay a modest fee — or nothing at all.

"We're happy to have them as our guests," says Bobbi Mitchell, a partner at the Dock at Crayton Cove in Naples, which charges $15 a bottle to those who bring their own wine. "We let guests bring their fresh-caught fish in, and we prepare that. We want them to bring in their special wines as well."

It's all about customer service.

"We do not say no to our guests; no does not exist in our restaurants," Ms. Mitchell says.

Corkage fees range from nothing to about $25 in Lee and Collier county restaurants. As long as customers are considerate, most restaurants have no problem with the practice and, in some cases, waive the fee.

Here are some simple rules that help make the experience more pleasant for everyone:

• Call ahead to find out the restaurant's policy.

• Avoid taking wines that are on the establishment's wine list.

• Let the server know as soon as you are seated that you have brought wine.

• Offer the sommelier a taste.

• When having a second bottle, order one from the wine list.

• Tip generously, taking into account what the wine's price would have been had you purchased it there and factoring that amount into the bill for the purpose of calculating the tip.

Lisa Boet, co-owner of Bamboo Café in Naples, says when the café offered corkage fee-free Wednesdays last summer, business was brisk. Beginning in May, corkage fees will be waived every day for the summer at the restaurant. "We don't want to limit our guests to bringing special wines only on a certain day," she says.

Wine collecting has soared in popularity in recent years, and people often want to bring in bottles that mean something to them.

"They will bring it in and they tell us the most interesting stories," says Ms. Boet, recalling a couple who recently brought champagne they purchased on their honeymoon 20 years ago. "It was past its prime, but it was special to them."

Restaurants that cater to wine lovers, welcoming them to bring their own bottles and supplying high quality glasses, will likely be rewarded.

Collectors and anyone who has a few special bottles of wine are sensitive to wine-friendly restaurants and seek them out, says Fort Myers wine lover Jerry Greenfield. "We generally don't go to a restaurant that doesn't allow BYOB, or charges more than $20 a bottle," he says, adding, "Restaurant owners should welcome people who enjoy fine wines, because they are also appreciative of good food."

Don't be afraid to discuss the corkage fees, either. The highest Mr. Greenfield has paid for corkage was at one of Alain Ducasse's restaurants in New York, where the corkage fee was $100 per bottle. "We negotiated down to $50," he says. "We were bringing in older first growth Bordeaux, wines that cost $1,000 a bottle, and we were spending about $300 per person for dinner."

Alexander Stepanovich, wine director at Sea Salt in Naples, says the customary fee there is $20, but if it's a rare wine or one the customer received as a gift, he'll often waive the fee. He finds that people often buy a second bottle from the wine list anyway.

"We have a very relaxed policy," he says.

Sweet Melissa's on Sanibel has a similar practice, charging $25, but eliminating that if the customer buys a bottle off the list, says general manager Marlana Kennedy.

Besides checking the restaurant's policy, there's another reason to call first.

"If the wine is truly special, please call ahead," says Angela Robertson, sommelier at Angelina's Ristorante in Bonita Springs. "We can even match your dinner to the wine if you like."

There are times when it's not appropriate to take your own wine, such as when you don't have a bottle that's special or don't have any idea what you'll order and so can't determine what will best complement the meal.

Some people BYOB in an effort to save money, and restaurants have become more tolerant of that. "We understand the economy these days," says Cindie Barker, manager of Bistro 41 in Fort Myers. "We want our guests to enjoy their dining experience.

"If bringing in their wine helps that, we want those dining dollars. They are very precious these days."

.. Wine picks of the week

>>Los Vascos Cabernet Sauvignon 2006: Bright ruby red color, with red cherries, plums and raspberry on the palate, with spices and tannins at the end. About $8.

>>Oyster Bay Pinot Noir 2007: Firmly structured with black cherry, white pepper and plenty of cherry and dark chocolate on the palate. About $20. >>Concha y Toro Cabernet Sauvignon Casillero del Diablo Reserve 2007: Ripe dark red fruits, medium weight with a smooth finish. About $12.