PAST REPASTS

JIM MCCRACKEN / FLORIDA WEEKLY Pan-seared Chilean sea bass with pepper sauce and pineapple rice gets elegant treatment in origami's kitchen.

Cantina Laredo, 200 Big Pine Way, Fort Myers, FL 33907-59; 415-4424.

Cantina Laredo's guacamole changed my mind about a dip I always thought of as bland and uninteresting. Servers create it tableside, scooping out ripe avocado then adding jalapenos, spices, cilantro, lime juice and tomatoes to customers' tastes. It's heavenly, especially when accompanied by a margarita made with one of the top-flight varieties available here. (The anejo Cabo Wabo's a winner.) Entrees of shrimp poblano chimichanga as well as a sampler platter containing a beef taco, chile relleno, tamale and chicken enchilada were hot, fresh and perfectly seasoned. And, for dessert, you can't go wrong with the flan, the Mexican brownie or the warm apple pie topped with vanilla or cinnamon ice cream. Both the vigilant service and the well-appointed dining room of this lively Tex-Mex restaurant make it a great place for a festive night out. Open daily for lunch and dinner. Full bar.

H2 Tapas & Wine Bar, 2214 Bay St., Fort Myers; 266-1687.

What began as a bar with tapas has matured into a hip dining spot in downtown Fort Myers. Chef/owner Harold Balink now offers some of the favorites from his previous restaurant, Harold's on Bay, including warm wild mushroom salad and grilled cowboy steaks. With a full bar and an impressive list of wines (22 of which are available by the glass), it's a popular watering hole, but the food is worth a visit as well. A large plate of seared Copper River salmon with lime butter and a spicy shrimp salad was a satisfying entrée. From the tapas menu, we sampled four: shrimp mini tacos, crab wontons, beef tenderloin sliders and a white pizza with chicken, all of which were nicely plated and tasted as good as they looked. A round serving of orange-caramel goat cheese cheesecake was creamy and satisfying. Full bar.

Origami, Cypress Trace Shopping Center, 13300-41 S. Cleveland Ave., Fort Myers; 482-2126.

Origami's Korean and Japanese fare remains as good as ever. Sushi and sashimi share space with cooked Japanese standards and Korean classics. A hot mango roll — spicy tuna with sliced yellowtail and mango on the outside, served with mango and eel sauces — was refreshing with its blend of fish and mango, sweet notes from the eel and mango sauces and a fiery finish from the spicy sauce tucked inside with the tuna. Pan-seared Chilean sea bass with roasted sweet pepper sauce and pineapple rice was expertly prepared and the jop chae, a Korean version of lo mein, was hearty and well seasoned. All the little side dishes — miso soup, seaweed and kimchee, among them — were tasty, too. Banana spring rolls with coconut ice cream and chocolate sauce finished the meal nicely. Service was friendly, if a little inconsistent.

Sasse's, 3651 Evans Ave., Fort Myers; 278-5544

Sasse's has become a kinder and gentler establishment since Barbara and Jerry Snyderman bought it a couple of years back. Both credit cards and reservations are accepted these days and servers, chefs and management go out of their way to make everyone welcome. If that's not enough, the kitchen is at the top of its game. This outpost of refined Italian cuisine has long been known for its gargantuan portions and that hasn't changed. From the big bowl of perfectly steamed mussels in a white wine broth to the freshly baked bread shrimp Parmigiana and braised lamb shank, every dish was expertly seasoned, cooked and plated. And, no matter how much food you order, save room for dessert. The créme brulee was an exercise in delicious decadence and the flourless chocolate cake was dark, dense and intensely satisfying. Expect to take home leftovers. It's a Sasse's tradition. Beer and wine served.

Siam Hut, 4521 Del Prado Blvd., Cape Coral; 945-4247

After enjoying countless meals here over more than two decades, I can heartily recommend the always reliable Siam Hut. There are lots of options for vegetarians and the helpful staff will make sure dishes are prepared extra mild, medium or fiery hot, depending on the customer's preference. A few of my favorites include: curry puffs, tom kha gai (a coconut-milk-based sweet and sour soup), Chinese sausage salad, pad Thai (the national noodle dish), all of the curried entrees, tofu with green beans and hot and spicy chili paste and sweet and sour chicken (really — the sauce is tangy and light, not sweet and heavy as it is in so many places). But don't take my word for it — try virtually anything on the menu. It's hard to go wrong here. Beer and basic wine served.

Cantina Laredo

 

 

 

 

H2 Tapas & Wine Bar

Origami Sasse's Siam Hut