A&E

PAST REPASTS Here are some capsule summaries of previous reviews:

An ever-changing array of grilled vegetables come piled atop creamy gorgonzola walnut polenta at The Joint. An ever-changing array of grilled vegetables come piled atop creamy gorgonzola walnut polenta at The Joint. Crave, Bridge Plaza, 12901 McGregor Blvd., Fort Myers; 466-4663

What a great name for this unobtrusive little gem tucked into the Bridge Plaza not far from Nomiki's Plaka and Café Cibo. Try it once and chances are you'll return. With just 10 tables and three booths, a large chalkboard for daily specials and a minimalist décor, it's the food that shines here, just as chef/owner Sean Gavin intended. For breakfast, there are classic biscuits and gravy as well as shrimp and grits or corned beef hash. BLTs, burgers and the Wicked Fluffa Nutta (a tripledecker Marshmallow Fluff and peanut butter sandwich) are lunch fare; and dinner includes standards such as mac and cheese, roasted chicken and meatloaf. I liked the Crave dip, with shrimp, crab, spinach, mushrooms and cheese, as well as the goat cheese mac and cheese. The three-way duck is a tasty and imaginative entrée and the salmon was resplendent in a raspberry vodka martini sauce. A trio of cupcakes (red velvet, chocolate with raspberry sauce and vanilla with chocolate sauce) was a standout. Beer and wine

Dinner at P.F. Chang's China Bistro Dinner at P.F. Chang's China Bistro Fabio Ristorante, 4150 Hancock Bridge Parkway, North Fort Myers; 656- 5727. Since 1983, the Ciminati family has been dishing up hearty Italian fare served with classic Italian hospitality in their inviting little restaurant tucked into the nondescript Lochmoor Plaza on Hancock Bridge Parkway (just west of Orange Grove Boulevard). Feast on such classics as mussels oreganata, eggplant Parmigiana, or a family recipe (and my favorite) capelli alla Ninetta, pasta with dark, Italian tuna, peas, garlic and onions. Tina Ciminati's tiramisu is heavenly and worth every calorie. The restaurant, which got a makeover following Hurricane Charley, is done in warm earth tones, providing an appealing atmosphere that matches the food and hospitality. Beer and wine. Cash or checks accepted.

The Joint, 5848 Cape Harbour Drive, Cape Coral; 542-0123

For a lively atmosphere and a full slate of well-executed small plates, The Joint is hard to beat. A large covered deck gives customers an expansive view of some of the yachts docked at Cape Harbour. The manage- ment takes a fun-filled approach to food and

spirits. The extensive drink list, for example, offers selections such as Wild Squirrel Sex, Shock Tart, a Diamond Cutter martini and a Double Passion mojito. The wine list is no slouch either. The wood-grilled veggie platter is a meal unto itself, although it pairs well with the uptown mac and cheese and/ or grilled Kobe sliders. There's a good selection of pizzas, too. Full bar.

P.F. Chang's China Bistro, Gulf Coast Town Center, south Fort Myers; 590-9197. Lush, lovely décor, exemplary service and praiseworthy food make Chang's an immediate hit wherever it opens. It's usually crowded and, as a result, a touch on the noisy side, but worth it to feast on Chang's vegetarian lettuce wraps, crisp crab wontons, mu shu pork, Cantonese roasted duck (Chang's version of Peking duck), and orange peel shrimp. Chocolate lovers should plan their meals so as to save room for the Great Wall of Chocolate, but also worthy of mention are the banana spring rolls with coconut-pineapple ice cream. Full bar.

Crave, Crave, The Sandy Butler, 17650 San Carlos Blvd., Fort Myers Beach; 482-6765. It's a restaurant. It's a bar. It's a produce market, deli and bakery. The Sandy Butler is all of those things. An appetizer of blackened sea scallops over a ginger caramel sauce proved delicious, the large scallops cooked just enough and balanced out by a sauce that tasted of both ginger and caramel without overwhelming the delicate shellfish and its savory seasoning. A crab cake billed as sweet and spicy was also quite large, laden with big chunks of crab. I suppose that was the sweet part because the pink-hued sauce was fiery hot. Both came with lovely fuchsia orchids on the plate, creating a colorful contrast to the white plates and black granite tabletops. The rack of lamb crusted with hazelnuts and Dijon mustard consisted of five chops, delicately seasoned and cooked just to a blushing medium. Grouper topped with a sweet red pepper and balsamic sauce was good, although the wild mushrooms beneath were a bit chewy. From the hostess to the server to the manager, everyone was warm and hospitable.

Fabio Ristorante, Fabio Ristorante, The Joint, The Joint, P.F. Chang's China Bistro, P.F. Chang's China Bistro, The Sandy Butler, The Sandy Butler,


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