A meal at Parrot Key gives Floridians something to crow about

Is there anything more gratifying than dining al fresco along the waterfront in January? I didn't think so until I learned that on at least one day last week, Fort Myers was 100 degrees warmer than Fargo, N.D. One hundred degrees!

Although I know not a soul in that arctic abyss, I must confess to enjoying a momentary smugness while savoring a mojito as a gentle breeze wafted in from the bay during dinner at Parrot Key Caribbean Grill. I can't prove it, but I believe the meal tasted better as I chewed over the brutal climatic conditions in Fargo.

Even without that chilly lagniappe, however, dinner was suitably subtropical and satisfying.

This open-air restaurant and watering hole sprawls along one side of Salty Sam's Marina, off Main Street on Fort Myers Beach. Despite the fact that it's about a half-mile off the main drag, it's generally jam-packed with a mix of residents and tourists in search of fresh seafood, copious quantities of beverages, a great view of the water and live music you can dance to. Parrot Key delivers on all counts.

We timed our visit perfectly — arriving about 6 p.m., before the rush — and were rewarded with a table for two right along the edge of the marina. The unobstructed view of the boats, a charter captain cleaning the day's catch and the tranquil waters beyond was first rate. However, we soon discovered that without any sunlight, it was nearly impossible to read the menu. I wound up employing the small candle on our table to illuminate my menu while my companion maneuvered his until he caught a little beam from a nearby building. A flashlight would have helped immeasurably.

COURTESY PHOTO Parrot Key is known for its festive and casual waterfront ambience. Wine and beer are available at Parrot Key, but a tropical drink seems the most fitting way to begin a meal in such a setting. We tried a Key West mojito and the Cayo Costa punch (dark Bahamian rum, light rum and a blend of grenadine, pineapple juice and sweet and sour mix topped with a little more rum). The mojito was good, but the punch was even better, with the dark rum keeping it from being too sweet.

Just a few minutes after placing our order, the appetizers arrived — coconut shrimp and Mumbo's jumbo shrimp cocktail. The coconut shrimp were golden brown and had great coconut flavor

without being overly sweet. They came in a taco shell beneath which sat pools of raspberry and mango sauces, which were just right for dipping. The Mumbo's jumbo shrimp cocktail was an excellent rendition of this classic, with four huge, ultra-fresh shrimp served with balsamic cilantro cocktail sauce.

Crisp coconut shrimp come tucked into a taco shell. KAREN FELDMAN / FLORIDA WEEKLY We'd just finished our appetizers when the entrees arrived.

Both the Saint Tropez tuna and the Virgin Gorda grouper platters looked very appetizing, each containing generous pieces of fish, surrounded by fresh vegetables and potatoes.

The grouper is available blackened, grilled, jerked, fried or barbecued. I went for fried and found it to be a great treatment for this tender, flaky fish. It came topped with fresh mango salsa, which added a tropical flavor. French fries were crunchy and good, while the vegetables were tender-crisp.

The tuna was well-prepared, too, cooked medium rare, as ordered, with a thin sesame crust and light teriyaki glaze, both of which enhanced the fish without overshadowing it. Yukon gold mashed potatoes paired well with the tuna.

For dessert, we shared a large wedge of Key lime pie, which was creamy, tart and pale yellow. The restaurant touts it as an award-winning recipe and I'd have to concur.

Service wise, the style was casual, which is fine with a few exceptions. We obviously needed a light to read the menu, something our server could see but didn't offer to fix. And, while she was friendly, she was extremely busy, speeding from table to table, as were the other servers. She didn't have time to stop by and check to see that we were happy with the food, that our beverages were refreshed or whether we needed anything, although she efficiently fulfilled whatever requests we had when we were able to flag her down.

Despite the service being somewhat rushed, it's easy to see why the place is so popular. The seafood is fresh and well prepared, there are plenty of beverage choices, the view is terrific and the dance floor was crowded. Clearly, it's the kind of place where people gather to party, Florida style. Eat your heart out, Fargo.