PAST REPASTS

This is the Polpo (octopus) salad, a frequent special at Fabio's.

Fabio Ristorante, 4150 Hancock Bridge Parkway, North Fort Myers; 656-5727.

Since 1983, the Ciminati family has been dishing up hearty Italian fare served with classic Italian hospitality in their inviting little restaurant tucked into the nondescript Lochmoor Plaza on Hancock Bridge Parkway (just west of Orange Grove Boulevard). Feast on such classics as zuppa di pesce, mussels oreganata, eggplant Parmigiana, or a family recipe (and my favorite) capelli alla Ninetta, pasta with dark, Italian tuna, peas, garlic and onions. Tina Ciminati's tiramisu is heavenly and worth every calorie. The restaurant, which got a

Fabio Ristorante

makeover following Hurricane Charley, is done in warm earth tones, providing an appealing atmosphere that matches the food and hospitality. Open for lunch Tuesday through Friday, dinner Tuesday through Saturday. Beer and wine. Cash or checks accepted.

H2 Tapas & Wine Bar, 2214 Bay St., Fort Myers; 266-1687.

H2 Tapas & Wine Bar

What began as a bar with tapas has matured into a hip dining spot in downtown Fort Myers. Chef/owner Harold Balink now offers some of the favorites from his previous restaurant, Harold's on Bay, including warm wild mushroom salad and grilled cowboy steaks. With a full bar and an impressive list of wines (22 of which are available by the glass), it's a popular watering hole but the food is worth a visit as well. A large plate of seared Copper River salmon with lime butter and a spicy shrimp salad was a satisfying entrée. From the tapas menu, we sampled four shrimp mini tacos, crab wontons, beef tenderloin sliders and a white pizza with chicken, all of which were nicely plated and tasted as good as they looked. A round serving of orange-caramel goat cheese cheesecake was creamy and satisfying. Open Monday through Saturday for lunch and dinner.

 

Origami, Cypress Trace Shopping Center, 13300-41 S. Cleveland Ave., Fort Myers; 482-2126.

Origami's Korean and Japanese fare remains as good as ever. Sushi and sashimi share space with

Origami

cooked Japanese standards and Korean classics. A hot mango roll — spicy tuna with sliced yellowtail and mango on the outside, served with mango and eel sauces — was refreshing with its blend of fish and mango, sweet notes from the eel and mango sauces and a fiery finish from the spicy sauce tucked inside with the tuna. Pan-seared Chilean sea bass with roasted sweet pepper sauce and pineapple rice was expertly prepared and the jop chae, a Korean version of lo mein, was hearty and well seasoned. All the little side dishes — miso soup, seaweed and kimchee, among them — were tasty, too. Banana spring rolls with coconut ice cream and chocolate sauce finished the meal nicely. Service was friendly, if a little inconsistent.

Siam Hut, 4521 Del Prado Blvd., Cape Coral; 945-4247.

Siam Hut

After enjoying countless meals here over more than two decades, I can heartily recommend the always reliable Siam Hut to veteran Thai-food lovers as well as newcomers to this vibrant, fresh cuisine. There are lots of options for vegetarians and the helpful staff will make sure dishes are prepared extra mild, medium or fiery hot, depending on the customer's preference. A few of my favorites include: curry puffs, tom kha gai (a coconut-milkbased sweet and sour soup), Chinese sausage salad, pad Thai (the national noodle dish), all of the curried entrees, tofu with green beans and hot and spicy chili paste and sweet and sour chicken (really — the sauce is tangy and light, not sweet and heavy as it is in so many places). But don't take my word for it — try virtually anything on the menu. It's hard to go wrong here. Open for lunch on weekdays and dinner Monday through Saturday. Beer and basic wine served.

Sunset Grill, 6536 Pine Ave., Sanibel; 472-2333.

Sunset Grill

An inspired chef creates culinary marvels at this small and somewhat plain little island restaurant. Chef Amy Visco's menu features imaginative flavor combinations on both the sweet and savory sides. Among the highlights were

The Sunset Grill's sea bass is served beneath a puff pastry latticework with cornchive stuffing, onion remoulade and smoked tomato creme and mascarpone risotto.

mussels enlivened with green curry, Key lime, coconut milk and basil; lobster crab cakes with vanilla rum sauce and mango créme fraiche; crispy cast-iron airline duck breast and sea bass in a lattice puff pastry. I particularly liked the maple-spiced sweet potato soufflé that accompanied the duck. For dessert, chocolate bourbon pecan pie with whipped cream, ice cream and a hint of chocolate sauce was perfect for sharing. Time it right and you can take in a waterfront sunset before or after the meal. Beer and wine served. Open for breakfast, lunch and dinner every day.