Ms. Cuisine and Mr. Vino get cozy for New Year's Eve

Bollinger Brut Rosé Champagne La Grande Année 1999.

This may sound like sacrilege from a restaurant critic, but I hate to go out on New Year's Eve. I just don't do it.

Over the years, I have found that even the best places are too full of people who are too full of liquor to behave decorously. The staff is overtaxed and often the kitchen is, too. And you pay more than you would on any other night.

Afterward, you have to worry about whether you've overindulged and might find yourself dancing with the sheriff's Wolf Pack, which will surely be out in force that night.

Of course, some people crave fellowship as they usher out the old and ring in the new. Some don't have a special someone they'd like to spend some one-on-one time with on this special evening. In either case, there's no substitute for a night on the town.

For the happily committed, here's my advice: Go out Dec. 30. Or Jan. 1. Or the 2nd, 3rd or 4th. Or all of those nights.

But on New Year's Eve, Mr. Vino (Florida Weekly wine columnist Jim McCracken) and I like to do something

different: We plan and prepare a romantic dinner pour deux.

Here are the rules:

1. It should be easy. You don't want to wear yourself out cooking and not be able to enjoy the evening (not to mention stay up until midnight).

2. The food should be something you don't normally serve.

3. There must be some mighty fine wine to accompany said food.

4. Candles and mood music are mandatory. If you still have children at home, call in a favor and farm the little darlings out to someone who hasn't had your foresight.

5. Once dinner is prepared, dress as if you were going out for a night on the town.

What follows is a dinner that shouldn't tax even novice cooks. Mr. Vino has provided suggestions for what to drink with each course, making that process as easy as zipping over to your favorite wine purveyor and remembering to chill each selection to the proper temperature. And he's kept in mind that there are just two people so opening several bottles is neither advisable nor necessary.

Feldman

Here's an easy dinner for two, much of which can be prepped in advance, along with wines that should bring about a fine start to 2009. For the recipes, go to www.floridaweekly. com.

First course: Roasted Beet Soup

This lush red soup can be made the day before and refrigerated. All you have to do to serve is reheat it and top with créme fraiche or sour cream.

What to drink: For an elegant start, try a rosé Champagne. Go for the gold with Bollinger Brut Rosé Champagne La Grande Année 1999 (about $300). It's a perfect aperitif, with complex and vibrant color, and flavors of dried berry, tobacco and spice with a long finish. This will complement the big flavors of the roasted beets. For a more economical option, try Pommery Brut Rosé Champagne NV (about $75). It's one of the best non-vintage selections, with bright cherry and berry flavors tinged with clove and cinnamon and a toasty finish. If you're going to serve the poached pears for dessert, save a glass for that.

 

McCracken

Entrée: Scallops with Polenta, Wild Mushrooms, Sherry and Parsley

This dish takes little preparation so you won't spend a long time laboring over a hot stove. Serve with a salad or steamed broccolini with a bit of butter and lemon.

What to drink: The French have a knack for matching food and wine, and Louis Jadot Puligny Montrachet Les Folatieres 2006 is perfect with seafood. Delicate hazelnut, peach and citrus flavors over a mineral base, this is supple with a creamy texture and an expansive aftertaste. It has terrific harmony and complexity. Expect to spend about $80.

Dessert option one: Champagnepoached pears

This is a light but elegant end to a meal that can be made well in advance.

What to drink: Now you can finish the champagne and not be incapacitated for post-dinner activities that may provide a memorable end of the year.

Dessert option two: Norman Love chocolates

Yes, it's the easy way out, but it isn't likely your significant other will complain. His or her mouth will be full of sensuous, velvety chocolate likely to reduce conver- sation to monosyllabic moans of pleasure. The new BLACK line features rich, dark origin chocolates that are as complex in flavor as wine and, because dark chocolate also has numerous health benefits, can be considered a virtuous substitute for the poached pears. Find them at Love's Chocolate Salon just off Daniels Parkway in Fort Myers or at Sea Salt in Naples.

What to drink: A good port is an appropriate partner to these, both for flavor and because you need not feel compelled to finish the bottle in one sitting. Taylor Fladgate 10 Year Old Tawny will cost about $35. Ripe, silky, dried red currants, raisins and nuts are evident in this refined, elegantly structured wine. Or choose Graham's 10 Year Old Tawny for about $40. It's deep amber in color with complex orange

The recipes

Romantic New Year's Eve dinner for two

>>First course: Roasted Beet Soup Ingredients: ½ pound red beets (about 3 medium) 1½ teaspoons EACH butter and olive oil 1 leek (white and pale green parts), chopped 1 small onion, thinly sliced 1 celery stalk, chopped 1/8 teaspoon EACH ginger, allspice and ground white pepper 2 cups water 1 small bay leaf 1 EACH fresh thyme sprig and parsley sprig ¼ cup whipping cream 2 tablespoons créme fraiche or sour cream

 

Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Wrap beets in foil and roast until tender when pierce with fork, about 1 hour. Cool. Peel beets. Cut ¼ beets into ¼-inch cubes. Reserve for garnish. Cut remaining beets into ½-inch pieces.

Melt butter and oil in heavy medium saucepan over medium-high heat. Add leek, onion and celery, cook until beginning to brown, stirring frequently, about 13 minutes. Stir in ginger, allspice, white pepper and ½-inch beet pieces. Cook until vegetables begin to stick to the bottom of pot, stirring frequently, about 7 minutes. Add 2 cups water, bay leaf, thyme and parsley. Bring to boil. Reduce heat to low, cover and simmer until vegetables are tender, about 25 minutes. Remove bay leaf, thyme and parsley. Cool slightly. Working in batches, puree soup in blender with cream. Season to taste with salt and pepper.

NOTE: Can be made a day ahead. Cool slightly, cover and refrigerate. When ready to serve, gently reheat but don't boil. Divide into two bowls. Garnish each with 1 tablespoon créme fraiche or sour cream. Sprinkle with reserved beet cubes.

Source: Epicurious.com

Entrée: Scallops with Polenta, Wild Mushrooms, Sherry and Parsley Bread Crumbs

Ingredients: 1/2 cup fresh bread crumbs from French bread with crust 1 tablespoon extra virgin olive oil 1 tablespoon fresh parsley, chopped 4 tablespoons unsalted butter, divided 6 ounces fresh wild mushrooms (such as oyster, crimini or shiitake) 1 1/4 teaspoons fresh thyme, chopped 1/2 cup green onions, chopped 1/4 cup Amontillado sherry 1/4 cup low-salt vegetable or chicken broth 1/8 cup whipping cream 2 cups (or more) water 1/2 teaspoon salt 1/2 cup polenta 3/4 pound scallops

 

Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Toss bread crumbs with olive oil and parsley in medium bowl to blend. Spread onto rimmed baking sheet. Bake until golden and crunchy, stirring occasionally, about 15 minutes. (Can be made a day ahead. Cool completely and store in airtight container at room temperature).

Melt 2 tablespoons butter in heavy large skillet over medium-high heat. Add mushrooms and thyme. Sauté until mushrooms are tender, stirring occasionally, about 7 minutes. Add green onions; sauté 1 minute. Add sherry; boil until slightly reduced, about 2 minutes. Add broth. Boil until reduced by half, about 3 minutes. Add cream; simmer until thickened, about 3 minutes. (Can be made 3 hours ahead. Cover and refrigerate.)

Bring 2 cups water and 1/2 teaspoon salt to boil in heavy medium saucepan. Gradually whisk in polenta. Reduce heat to medium law. Cook polenta until tender, adding water if it's too thick. Whisk frequently, about 20 minutes. Stir in 1 1/2 tablespoons butter. Season with salt and pepper. Cover to keep warm.

Reheat mushroom mixture. Melt 1 tablespoon butter in another large skillet over high heat. Add scallops and sauté until just translucent in center, about 1 minute. Stir scallops and juices into mushrooms. Season with salt and pepper.

Divide polenta between plates. Spoon scallop mixture over polenta, sprinkle bread crumbs over and serve.

Source: Adapted from Epicurious.com

Champagne-Poached Pears

Ingredients: 1 bottle champagne (about 3½ cups) 1 cup sugar Zest of ¼ lemon 1 teaspoon rose water (optional) ½ vanilla bean, split lengthwise (optional) 2 large pears (such as Bosc) or 4 small pears (such as Seckel), peeled (firm, slightly under ripe pears work best)

1. Combine all ingredients except pears in pot and bring to a simmer.

2. Carefully lower pears into liquid, adding up to 1 cup water to make sure fruit is fully submerged.

3. Simmer until pears are tender, 15 to 17 minutes for small pears, 25 to 30 minutes for large ones.

4. Cool pears in cooking liquid for 30 minutes before serving, or store in refrigerator (in liquid) for up to a week.

 

Optional: You can carefully hollow the out the pears and add mascarpone cheese enhanced with a touch of vanilla and confectioners sugar if desired.

Source: Epicurious.com