Add sparkle to holiday celebrations with a bit of bubbly

It might not seem obvious at first, but real estate and sparkling wines have a great deal in common.

As everyone knows, the value of real estate depends on three factors: location, location, location. Similarly, the value of sparkling wine depends largely on three factors: terroir, terroir, terroir.

Terroir is a French term that encompasses the soil and other conditions — altitude, rainfall, drainage and position relative to the sun, for example — under which the grapes are grown. Often called microclimate in the United States, it plays a major role in the flavor and quality of the wine and, subsequently, the price.

Also like real estate, a wine's worth does depend on a few other elements. The winemaking method, the grape types and the name on the label all play parts.

A bottle of sparkling wine can range from about $10 well into three figures. Expect to pay more for champagnes (sparkling wines made in the Champagne district of France and by law the only ones permitted to be called champagne). There are, however, are a lot of wellmade wines available in the $25-$50 range.

Patrick Luquet I recently chatted with two wine representatives at Total Wine in Fort Myers. When I asked Jean-Remy Rapeneau from G.H. Martel Champagne why his champagne was better than other sparkling wines, he said champagne has a distinctive flavor that differentiates it from other sparkling wines. In short, it's the terroir.

"We have a lot of limestone in our steep hillside vineyards, and they possess the greatest terroir in the world for any sparkling wine," he said.

Patrick Luquet is the winemaker for Domaine Roger Luquet, a family-owned white Burgundy producer that has made wine for five generations. He was pouring his Cremant de Bourgogne, a 100 percent Pinot Chardonnay (what we simply call chardonnay) produced from the Macon-Villages district of France.

Mr. Luquet explained the difference between the family's Saint Veran and Macon- Villages vineyards to Fort Myers resident Marina McCarthey this way: "The Macon vineyards are in the valley, so the soil is sandy with sedimentary elements, and makes a lighter and fruitier wine," he said. "The Saint Veran vineyards are on a sloping hillside, so there is a lot of clay and mineral mixed in the soil, making a crisp, flinty style of white wine."

Translation: It's the terroir.

Because it's not always possible to taste sparkling wines before you buy them, rely on the experts.

Frank Pulice of Austin's Wine Cellar in Fort Myers said customers sometimes come in looking for champagne but are reluctant to spend the money. So he recommends they consider sparkling wines from other districts or countries. While he believes true champagne is the crown jewel of sparkling wines — "the district is absolutely the best for making sparkling wines from the Pinot Noir and Pinot Chardonnay grapes," he says — he also knows not everyone likes the classic taste of champagne.

What makes them distinctive? You guessed it: It's the terroir.

Sukie Honeycutt of Tony's off Third in Naples first tries to establish what her customers' tastes and budget are. Do they like a sweeter sparkler like an Italian prosecco or a drier Spanish cava?

"There are so many good sparkling wines available today," Ms. Honeycutt says. "I fell in love with Tony Soter's Brut Rose from Oregon while I was out there. Made from 100 percent pinot noir, with a bright color and flavor, it's just a delightful wine and my favorite sparkling rosé from the USA."

And so, in the spirit of the holidays, my gift to you is the following list of worthy contenders of varying prices suitable for festive gatherings:

Champagnes

• Bollinger La Grande Annee 1999: A well made and beautiful champagne with a complex floral nose and graphite, vanilla and citrus flavors. Lightweight and intense, with a lively structure and a long, lingering finish. Big enough to pair with entrees. About $130.

• Pierre Gimmonet Brut Blanc de Blanc: Nutmeg, citrus and fresh-baked bread bouquet and flavors give depth to this elegant, precise champagne. Firmly structured and balanced with a lingering aftertaste. About $70.

• G.H. Martel Victoire Brut: Blended with 70 percent Pinot Noir and 30 percent Pinot Chardonnay, this elegant champagne has vanilla, almonds, caramel and toast on the nose. About $40.

Sparklers

• Tony Soter's Brut Rose NV: A beautiful Oregonian wine made with 100 percent Pinot Noir grapes, with rich color, full of fresh floral and bright red fruit flavors. About $52.

• Cava Oriol Rossell Methode Champagnoise: A light bubbly, with a hint of lemon flavor and a simple finish. About $25.

• Domaine Luquet Cremant de Bourgogne NV: Light and bubbly with fresh apple and peach fruit and a light straw color. It's a good aperitif and can also accompany a light dinner or cheese and fruit. About $20.

• Pascual Toso Sparkler NV: A versatile Argentinian sparkler that pairs well with appetizers or desserts. It has nice fruit and a great price. About $17.