PAST REPASTS

Chile Ranchero serves a richly decadent flan that's worth the calories Chile Ranchero Restaurante y Taqueria, 11751 S. Cleveland Ave., Fort Myers; 275-0505.

Anyone who claims not to like Mexican food ought to try Chile Ranchero. Those who do like the authentic article are likely to swoon once they visit this little restaurant behind Kinko's just off U.S. 41. The menu contains quite a few dishes that may be new to non-Mexicans, but there's also familiar territory — tacos, quesadillas and fajitas — although these, too, may be a pleasant departure from what Americans

are accustomed to. Tacos, for example, come with soft fragrant corn tortillas, not brittle shells, and may be filled with higado (liver), lengua (tongue), pescado (fish), or adobada (marinated, steamed steak) as well as the usual suspects. The ceviche nachos were a feast of citrus-marinated fish and shrimp, avocado and diced tomatoes. The camarones al mojo de ajo (shrimp in butter, garlic and beer) was simple and delicious, while the parrillada ranchero, a sampler platter of grilled chicken, steak and chorizo sausage with roasted tomato sauce, was gargantuan and equally well executed. Don't miss the sensuously rich flan with real whipped cream for dessert.

Cin Cin Mediterranean Bar & Grill, 13451 McGregor Blvd., Fort Myers; 415- 2007

Pronounced Chin Chin, the restaurant's name is Italian for the toast "to your health," a moniker that fits the wideranging menu that feeds body and soul with creative Mediterranean fare. Executive chef Scott Sopher shows impressive range with a lineup that celebrates the flavors of Spain, Morocco, Italy, France, Greece and Cyprus. For those who like small plates, there are dozens of expertly executed ones from which to choose. The regular menu has its stars, too. From the tuna tartare (with capers, sprouts, watercress salad and a fried white anchovy), to appetizer-sized lamb chops, a classic Greek salad, grouper with lentils and crispy skinned duck breast over sweet potato barley risotto, every dish was vibrant and well executed. Be sure to indulge in one — or two — bite-sized desserts as well. Full bar.

Créme Brûlée at Delicious Things Delicious Things, 2262 First St., Fort Myers; 332-7797.

This lovely little downtown restaurant has the feel and taste of an authentic trattoria. Dine inside or at sidewalk tables on impeccably fresh, flavorful Italian favorites, such as caprese salad, carpaccio, tender gnocchi and exceptional créme brulee. Specials often feature fresh seafood and vegetables in delicately seasoned sauces. There hasn't been a dish I've ordered here that hasn't looked and tasted terrific, although I'm partial to the shrimp and scallops over pasta and any of the fresh fish dishes. On Mondays, the German owners serve up German food and music. On Tuesdays, stone crab and champagne are the stars. And to top it all off: the service is gracious and warm. Beer and wine served.

The Sandy Butler, 17650 San Carlos Blvd., Fort Myers Beach; 482-6765.

It's a restaurant. It's a bar. It's a produce market, deli and bakery. The Sandy

Butler is all of those things and a heavy hitter on the Fort Myers Beach dining scene. An appetizer of blackened sea scallops over a ginger caramel sauce proved delicious, the large scallops cooked just enough and balanced out by a sauce that tasted of both ginger and caramel, complementing the delicate shellfish. A crab cake billed as sweet and spicy was also quite large, laden with big chunks of crab with a fiery hot sauce. Both came with lovely fuchsia orchids, creating a colorful contrast to the white plates and black granite tabletops. The rack of lamb crusted with hazelnuts and Dijon mustard consisted of five chops, delicately seasoned and cooked just to a blushing medium. Grouper topped with a sweet red pepper and balsamic sauce was good, although the wild mushrooms beneath were a bit chewy. From the hostess to the server to the manager, everyone was warm and hospitable.

Chile Ranchero Restaurante y Taqueria, 11751 S. Cleveland Ave., Fort Myers; 275-0505. Cin Cin Mediterranean Bar & Grill, 13451 McGregor Blvd., Fort Myers; 415- 2007 Delicious Things, 2262 First St., Fort Myers; 332-7797. The Sandy Butler, 17650 San Carlos Blvd., Fort Myers Beach; 482-6765.