Sommeliers help take wine experience to higher level

Facing a voluminous restaurant wine list can be intimidating, even for reasonably experienced wine devotees.

That's why better restaurants and even some retail wine shops are stepping up service by having a sommelier on staff. A welltrained sommelier (pronounced SUH-mal- YAY), or wine steward, can enhance the dining experience by helping customers select just the right wine for the meal.

A sommelier has a number of duties. Perhaps the most important is determining what wines to stock.

Rose O'Dell King, a food and wine writer and sommelier from Fort Myers, says, "A trained sommelier is dedicated to stocking the wine cellar with treasures that will provide extraordinary flavor affinities with the restaurant's cuisine." That's accomplished, she says, by tasting wines with suppliers and working with the chef to properly pair wine with food.

For Angela Robertson, sommelier at Angelina's Restaurant in Bonita Springs, graduating from the Culinary Institute of America helped hone her ability to match wines and food. But she says there's more to process than that. "I want guests to feel comfortable with my recommendation, and I make sure I know the price they want to pay," she says.

COURTESY PHOTO Mark Ferrari of Handsome Harry's Third Street Bistro Ms. Robertson draws on her intuition in some cases when customers aren't always able to put into words the wines they like to drink. "Sometimes after talking to a customer at the table I'll go into the wine tower and a wine will call out my name," she says.

Mark Ferrari, manager and sommelier at Handsome Harry's Third Street South Bistro in Naples, says customers can improve their chances of success by describing their general preferences. "Does the customer like lighter-bodied or full-bodied wines?" he asks. "What wines do you like to drink at home?"

That said, Mr. Ferrari says he also encourages customers to be adventurous. "Just experiment and have fun," he advises. "If you can, step out of your comfort zone and try new regions and wine types."

How do customers know if they are working with a good sommelier?

He or she should focus on their needs, not simply push a specific product.

PHOTO JIM MCCRACKEN / FLORIDA WEEKLY Thom McKay of The Wine Merchant Mr. Ferrari says he tries to "give a variety of options in different categories and prices" and likes to help his customer "get past rigid buying patterns."

Ms. King says customers can get some idea of a sommelier's abilities by examining his or her wine list. An abundance of mass-marketed wines can indicate indifference or lack of initiative on the part of the restaurant.

Not all sommeliers work in restaurants. Quality wine shops have begun hiring them as well.

Thom McKay, the sommelier at The Wine Merchant in North Naples, says working in a retail store presents different challenges than those of restaurants. "I have more leeway than some restaurants because I can spend more time with shoppers… not at tableside under the gun," he says.

He also has an opportunity to help some customers with more than selecting the wine for a particular meal. "Some need assistance in setting up or maintaining a wine cellar," he says, adding he sometimes visits customers' homes to see what they have in their cellars."

Whether employing the services of a sommelier in a retail shop or a restaurant, customers should not hesitate to ask questions.

"There are no stupid questions," says Ms. King. "Ask anything, even how to pronounce 'Viognier.' Especially ask which wines on the list they are passionate about. Nothing makes a sommelier happier than to have an adventurous diner in the house."

(By the way, it's 'Vee-oh-NYAY' and at its best it's a richly flavored white with apricot and peach notes and a fragrant bouquet.)

Remember that drinking wine is about enjoyment, and a sommelier is there to help add to that pleasure.

Wine picks of the week

>>Dominio De Tares Albares Bierzo 2003: This Spanish wine is made from the mencia grape. This red is full of black cherry, cranberry and earth notes with smooth tannins. About $16.

>>Two Hands Shiraz McLaren Vale Angels Share 2007: Big and bold shiraz from a quality Aussie winery, with typical black cherry, plum and raspberry flavors and long lingering finish. "Fit for angels and mortals alike" proclaims the label. About $30.

>>Dr. Heidemanns-Bergweiler Graacher Himmelreich Riesling Kabinett 2007: Racy, elegant and juicy, with concentrated apricot mango and mineral notes and a lingering finish, with just a hint of the characteristic spritz of a fine estate-bottled Mosel wine. About $18.