Plaka II still has harmonious atmosphere, but food needs a tune-up

There are probably as many definitions of soul food as there are souls that seek sustenance. In fact, there may be more considering that some of us consider more than one cuisine deeply satisfying.

Among those that I find move me to more than simple satiety are Jewish, an obvious byproduct of my upbringing and roots; Indian, which has aromatherapy properties that nourish in ways solid food can't; French, with its lush textures and heady flavors; and Greek, a hearty cuisine that, when executed properly, is elegant in its simplicity.

Sunny lemon, bold garlic and onions, delicate lamb, eggplant and other Mediterranean staples give Greek food its spirit. Although I no longer can touch ouzo (having ouzoed to excess on my 21st birthday on the Greek island of Naxos), I believe it's a beverage that adds authenticity and another layer of flavor to dishes with which it is served. If you can stomach it and its anise flavor appeals to you, I recommend trying it when eating Greek food.

Among the places I've sought comfort of a Grecian nature over the years is Plaka II, a cozy little outpost in the Iona-McGregor area in a shopping center dominated by a Mt. Olympus-sized Kmart. In its shadow sits this modest restaurant with the feel of a Greek taverna.

KAREN FELDMAN / FLORIDA WEEKLY Phyllo, nuts and honey combine to form baklava, a satisfying finish to a Greek meal.

There are lots of blue and white Greek flags hanging from the ceiling and on the walls. The dining room is awash in a dizzying array of urns, Greek columns and archways under which are painted scenes of Greece so life-like it almost appears as if you are looking out windows onto Greece itself. Still more Greek scenes are sandwiched beneath glass table tops.

On a recent weekday, there was but one other table occupied by two men when we arrived. Another party arrived after we did and a few individuals made fleeting visits for takeout fare. Despite the slow pace, it took our server about 10 minutes to stop by the first time and take our drink orders, but once that happened, she was vigilant about checking on us and delivering courses in a timely fashion.

When in Greece, if you can't drink ouzo, try a Greek wine. We sampled the house brand, Tsantali Rouge, which had little discernible fruit, but was smooth and didn't overpower the food.

KAREN FELDMAN / FLORIDA WEEKLY Hummus is a classic Greek appetizer dip made of chickpeas, tahini, garlic, lemon and spices.

We started off with hummus and calamari. The hummus arrived first. It was a generous portion, but was accompanied by only four small triangles of warm pita, far too few to make a dent in the portion of hummus. I have previously raved about this chickpea-based dip as interpreted by the Plaka II's kitchen, but this rendition didn't resemble that which I remembered. It was grainy and bland, lacking the velvety texture and the spark of lemon and garlic it's had in the past. As it turned out, we had enough pita for the amount we ate.

 The portion of calamari was small and the batter was also on the bland side, while the marinara was dominated by oregano.

Both of our entrees came with small Greek salads. Size-wise, they were fine, but what little dressing there was had been diluted by water-laden lettuce. Assertive anchovies helped give the salad some flavor.

A sautéed scallop entrée contained good-sized scallops that were sweet and properly cooked, but they were awash in a sea of cream sauce that overwhelmed them and the rice on which they were served.

A Greek platter provided a tour of the cuisine's classics, including dolmathes, pastitsio, moussaka, roasted lamb, spanakopita and green beans. Everything came mounded together, making it difficult to tell where one item ended and another began. The dolmathes had a flavorful filling of rice and meat although the grape leaf in which it was wrapped was tough. The moussaka consisted of well-seasoned layers of eggplant but too much breading. The roasted lamb had a strong flavor. On the plus side, the spinach pie (spanakopita) had a flavorful balance of spinach, feta and phyllo and the pastitsio's pasta, ground beef and tomato proved equally good. I liked the well-browned wedges of potato that came with the dish. The green beans, in their garlicky-sweet tomato base, also had good flavor but were lukewarm.

We finished the meal by sharing a small piece of baklava, that classic Greek dessert that combines phyllo, nuts and a honeyed syrup into something that becomes greater than its parts. We managed to finish it with no trouble.

It served to sweeten an otherwise disappointing meal at what's previously been an establishment known for serving consistently good Greek fare at reasonable prices. As restaurants battle to survive the current economic downturn, it's imperative that they maintain quality and consistency. It's my fervent hope that Plaka II can revitalize its kitchen and once again comfort patrons with the quality on which it made its name.