Fall is the perfect time to discover Germany's hidden treasures

ARTIS HENDERSON/FLORIDA WEEKLY Burg Eltz is one of many castles along the Rhine River. Market lights swing overhead in the Aldtstadt, the old city, as a 1980's cover band sings Cher in a German accent. The night is brisk - fall in Germany is never balmy - but the crowd spread across the cobblestone alleyways warms the evening air. It's wine harvest time in this stretch along the Rhine, and tonight, in Kamp- Bornhofer, the village is celebrating.

My traveling companions and I lean against upturned wine barrels and share thick slices of zwiebelkuchen, an onion tart layered with eggs and heavy cream, perfect for this time of year. We spear potatoes sautéed in butter and eat steaming bratwurst slathered with thick mustard. But what we really came for is the wine.

Germany is the world's eighth largest wine producer, with white wines making up the bulk of the country's 1.2 billion barrels produced annually. Along the Rhine, steep hillsides give rise to some of Germany's best grapes. In early fall, riverfront towns host wine festivals that offer visitors and locals alike a chance to sample the region's selections.

ARTIS HENDERSON/FLORIDA WEEKLY The Rhine remains an important commercial throughway, and few bridges span this part of it; ferries are the principal means for traversing the river. Tonight, we're drinking Federweisser, a cloudy, partially fermented wine that's sweet, fizzy and exceptionally easy to drink. An annual treat in the German wine country, Federweisser is made from recently harvested grapes and served only in the fall. Because the brew is still fermenting, it explodes if stored in a sealed container for more than a few days. It's one of life's pleasures best enjoyed in the moment.

But the real treat of the evening is the local Riesling. Crisp, golden, with a mineral acidity that speaks of the soil, the wine reminds us of the Rhineland itself. With each sip, we understand why autumn is an exceptional time to visit Germany. On this trip, we've decided to forgo the pilgrimage to Oktoberfest in Munich and explore Germany's less notorious gems instead.

Following the Rhine

ARTIS HENDERSON/FLORIDA WEEKLY The town square in Trier. The city claims to be the oldest in Germany and was once a capitol of the western Roman Empire. As we leave Kamp-Bornhofer, following the Rhine along the winding river roads, we spy castles around every turn. Competing lords once controlled commerce along the Rhine waterway, exacting heavy tolls from passing trade ships. These castles served as their strongholds. Today, some have been left to ruins, but most are maintained as private residences or hotels.

The river remains an important commercial throughway, and few bridges span this part of it; ferries are the principal means for traversing the river, and boats are packed with commuters in the early morning and evening hours. We've missed the school rush, but it's early enough that fog still blankets the river. We steer our rented Mercedes down the narrow ramp onto the ferry, smiling sheepishly as the German passengers motion with their hands and point to our rocking car, saying "handbremse" (handbrake).

The fog lifts as we reach the opposite shore, and the clear blue sky and rolling vineyards are reflected in the waters of the river.

Beyond beer and bratwurst

As we move away from the Rhine, first along the Mosel and then south into the Black Forest, we find that Germany hides a number of delights, beyond the beer- and bratwurst-soaked image. Trier, home to Trier University and a population of nearly 100,000, has a young, urban vibe that belies its ancient heritage. Founded in 16 B.C., the city claims to be the oldest in Germany and was once a capitol of the western Roman Empire. The sandstone Porta Nigra ("black gate") still stands, lending an Italian flamboyancy to the stern German landscape. We walk its arched colonnades before exploring the ruins of Roman baths at the heart of the city.

With thermal baths on our minds, we decide a stop in the resort spa town of Baden-Baden is the perfect end to our fall tour. Fewer than than 100 miles from Germany's southwestern border with France, here the French influence seeps across the border and lends a chic, sophisticated vibe to the city.

Baden-Baden has long been a playground for Europe's wealthy class and is now packed with Russia's nouveau riche. Maseratis cruise the streets, and high cheekboned eastern European women lounge in outdoor cafés. In his travel guide to Germany, Rick Steve says Baden-Baden "is made for strolling with a poodle," and we see five of the wiry-haired pooches our first day.

For all of Baden-Baden's high-end offerings, the baths are the real draw. Visitors have the choice of two thermal spring-fed bathhouses: the historic, sedate Friedrichsbad, or the more modern Caracalla.

Take a bath

The Friedrichsbad has been offering its famous Roman-Irish bath since 1877, and even Mark Twain is said to have enjoyed the spa's 17-step cleansing ritual. It's not for the faint of heart, however. The spa is strictly nude-only, and, on Sundays the bathhouse is entirely mixed gender.

We opt for the more modern, bathing suit-friendly Caracalla, which offers warm indoor and outdoor pools, eucalyptus steam rooms, and cold plunges. There is a second story with outdoor gardens and saunas built to look like log cabins, but this area, like the Friedrichsbad, is for nude bathers only. We cling to our modesty — and our swim suits — and stick to the first floor.

On our last night, we dine in a Bavarian restaurant where the servers wear lederhosen and the menu features German sausage and Hefeweizen. Even in upscale Baden-Baden, it's hard to miss Germany's unique flavor, best savored in the cool autumn months.