PAST REPASTS

Azucar's Paella Valenciana Here are summaries of some previous reviews:

Azucar, 3326 Del Prado Blvd., Cape Coral; 549-02833.

In Spanish, Azucar means sweet and that's just what a meal at this lovely little family owned restaurant is. Hearty fare, sinfully rich desserts and soulful Cuban coffee are served up by a friendly staff. An appetizer sampler platter was delicious, laden with fried shrimp, tamales, yucca, roasted pork, chicken wings along with three sauces - mango-mustard, Creole and pineapple coconut. The paella Valenciana was a faithful version of the classic, with lots of chicken, shrimp, mussels, fish and a lobster tail, all perfectly cooked in rice made fragrant with saffron and white wine. Another entrée of roasted pork chunks with cumin-laced black beans and yellow rice was also tasty and large. Dessert is a must here. Both the flan and a chocolate cake with a crunchy topping and a hint of anisette were superb, although it was hard to pick just two from the dazzling array in the bakery. Open daily for breakfast, lunch and dinner. Beer and wine served.

Azucar, 3326 Del Prado Blvd., Cape Coral; 549-02833. Cantina Laredo, 200 Big Pine Way, Fort Myers, FL 33907-59; 415-4424.

Cantina Laredo's guacamole changed my mind about a dip I always thought of as bland and uninteresting. Servers create it tableside, scooping out ripe avocado

then adding jalapenos, spices, cilantro, lime juice and tomatoes to the customers' tastes. It's heavenly, especially when accompanied by a margarita made with one of the top-flight varieties available here. (The anejo Cabo Wabo's a winner.) Entrees of shrimp poblano chimichanga as well as a sampler platter containing a beef taco, chile relleno, tamale and chicken enchilada were hot, fresh and perfectly seasoned. And, for dessert, you can't go wrong with the flan, the Mexican brownie or the warm apple pie topped with vanilla or cinnamon ice cream. Both the vigilant service and the well-appointed dining room of this lively Tex-Mex restaurant make it a great place for a festive night out. Open daily for lunch and dinner. Full bar.

Cin Cin Mediterranean Bar & Grill, 13451 McGregor Blvd., Fort Myers; 415- 2007.

Cantina Laredo, 200 Big Pine Way, Fort Myers, FL 33907-59; 415-4424. Pronounced Chin Chin, the restaurant's name is Italian for the toast "to your health," a moniker that fits the wide-ranging menu that feeds body and soul with creative Mediterranean fare. Executive chef Scott Sopher shows impressive range with a lineup that celebrates the flavors of Spain, Morocco, Italy, France, Greece and Cyprus. From the tuna tartare (with capers, sprouts, watercress salad and a fried white anchovy) , to appetizer-sized lamb chops, a classic Greek salad, grouper with lentils and crispy skinned duck breast over sweet potato barley risotto, every dish was vibrant and well executed. Be sure to indulge in one - or two - bite-sized desserts as well. Open for Sunday brunch and for dinner every night. Full bar.

Morgan House, 2207 First St., Fort Myers; 337-3377.

The downtown building may be a century old but the menu's gotten a definite update since the Price family took it over in 2007. Patrons can still find conch chowder, downtown tortellini, steaks and Caloosahatchee mud pie, but these old-timers are joined by more adventurous selections such as blackened scallops and cioppino. Oysters Rockefeller were traditional and well done; the blackened scallops were large, tender and very spicy, cooled by a soothing mango pineapple jicama slaw. The Caesar salad was another faithful and solid rendition. Entrees of Floribbean cioppino and The Surf Ate My Turf (crab-stuff shrimp in thinly sliced filet and bacon) were beautifully presented, properly seasoned and satisfying. A house-made mango-guava cheesecake was creamy, with vivid fruit flavors. Morgan House has a little something for adventurous palates, seafood lovers and confirmed meat-and-potatoes types, all at prices that won't spoil your appetite. Full bar. Serves lunch Tuesday through Friday, dinner Tuesday through Saturday.

Ted's Montana Grill, Coconut Point, 8017 Plaza Del Lago, Estero; 947-9318.

Media mogul/environmental advocate Ted Turner has created an interesting casual restaurant concept in Ted's Montana Grill. It combines classic comfort fare with a concerted environmental bent and adds in a hearty helping of bison for those who want a lean and healthy alternative to beef. Prices are moderate, choices are legion and the service was friendly, if a little slipshod. The dining room's Arts & Crafts style, with lots of mahogany paneling, tiled floors and pressed tin ceilings, gives it a cool and refreshing ambience. I particularly liked the salt and pepper onion rings (plan to share them), the St. Phillip's Island crab cake, the cedar-plank salmon and Aunt Fannie's squash casserole. Open for lunch and dinner daily. Full bar.

Cin Cin Mediterranean Bar & Grill, 13451 McGregor Blvd., Fort Myers; 415- 2007. Morgan House, 2207 First St., Fort Myers; 337-3377. Ted's Montana Grill, Coconut Point, 8017 Plaza Del Lago, Estero; 947-9318. Ted's version of meatloaf - but made of bison.