PAST REPASTS

Patio 33, 33 Patio de Leon, Fort Myers; 337-3357

I don't know how they do it, but the owners of Patio 33 have managed to keep the doors open in spite of the endless street workgoing on downtown in the so-called River District. For a while, Patio de Leon, in which the restaurant sits, was cut off on three sides from traffic. Despite that, it's worth making the extra effort to get to Patio 33, where sophisticated food and service reward intrepid patrons. Both the Asian spring roll and tuna carpaccio were beautifully plated and delicious. The crispy duck was indeed crispy and came with an excellent ruby red dried fruit port wine sauce. A nightly seafood special - red snapper with sun-dried tomatoes and capers - was equally gorgeous and flavorful. Don't miss dessert here. The chocolate fondant - a volcano type cupcake with milk chocolate liquid center served with a demitasse cup of dark chocolate - was heavenly and the lemon mousse with raspberry sauce was superb. Open for lunch weekdays, dinner Thursday through Saturday. Beer and wine served.

P.F. Chang's China Bistro, Gulf Coast Town Center, south Fort Myers; 590-9197. Lush, lovely décor, exemplary service and praiseworthy food make Chang's an immediate hit wherever it opens. It's usually crowded and, as a result, a touch on the noisy side, but worth it to feast on Chang's vegetarian lettuce wraps, crisp crab wontons, mu shu pork, Cantonese roasted duck (Chang's version of Peking duck), and orange peel shrimp. Chocolate lovers should plan their meals so as to save room for the Great Wall of Chocolate, but also worthy of mention are the banana spring rolls with coconutpineapple ice cream. Open daily for lunch and dinner. Price range: appetizers, $3-$8; entrees, $9-$17. Full bar.

Sasse's, 3651 Evans Ave., Fort Myers; 278-5544

Sasse's has become a kinder and gentler establishment since Barbara and Jerry Snyderman bought it a couple of years back. Both credit cards and reservations are accepted these days and

servers, chefs and management go out of their way to make everyone welcome. And if that's not enough, the kitchen is at the top of its game. This outpost of refined Italian cuisine has long been known for its gargantuan portions and that hasn't changed. From the big bowl of perfectly steamed mussels in a white wine broth to the freshly baked bread shrimp Parmigiana and braised lamb shank, every dish was expertly seasoned, cooked and plated. And, no matter how much food you order, save room for dessert. The créme brulee was an exercise in delicious decadence and the flourless chocolate cake was dark, dense and intensely satisfying. Expect to take home leftovers. It's a Sasse's tradition. Open for lunch Tuesday through Friday, dinner Tuesday through Saturday. Beer and wine served.

Sasse's, Ted's Montana Grill, Coconut Point, 8017 Plaza Del Lago, Estero; 947-9318

Media mogul/environmental advocate Ted Turner has created an interesting casual restaurant concept in Ted's Montana Grill. It combines classic comfort fare with a concerted environmental bent and adds in a hearty helping of bison for those who want a lean and healthy alternative to beef. Prices are moderate, choices are legion and the service was friendly, if a little slipshod. The dining room's Arts & Crafts style, with lots of mahogany paneling, tiled floors and pressed tin ceilings, gives it a cool and refreshing ambience that's most welcome during the subtropical summer. I particularly liked the salt and pepper onion rings (plan to share them), the St. Phillip's Island crab cake, the cedar-plank salmon and Aunt Fannie's squash casserole. Open for lunch and dinner daily. Full bar.

Ted's Montana Grill,