Get a taste of the sultry Mediterranean at Mille Sapore

As I close in on my 30th anniversary as a Floridian, I still loathe summer. I hate the heat that sucks the breath out of your lungs as you step outside. And I hate the humidity even more.

I realize it's the price one pays to escape northern winters, which are worse than Florida summers, but the depth of my selfpity grows in direct proportion to the rise in temperature.

Over the years, I've found the best antidote for this condition is a good meal served by a nurturing staff in a restaurant in which the lights are low and the air conditioning is high.

In search of just such respite on a recent evening, I found my way to Mille Sapore, a lovely Mediterranean establishment in a strip shopping center along Summerlin Road.

The bar and dining room were just as I remembered. The walls are a warm red with cream-colored arches, adorned with a variety of art, the most noticeable being three paintings of well endowed women. The bold scenes are the work of co-owner Eladel Eladel, and they have a lusty Mediterranean look about them. A piano player performed old classics, including audience requests.

Lamb chops in a sweet gingersoy and shallot glaze are among the staples on Mille Sapore's menu

Mille Sapore - Italian for "a thousand flavors" - offers tastes from various Mediterranean locales. Hummus, tabbouleh and baba ghanoush represent the Middle East, calamari, pizza and calzones provide familiar Italian tastes, while béchamel sauce, Brie and escargots in puff pastry lend a French accent. A variety of seafood conjures up visions of the azure Mediterranean Sea itself.

While there's a lot of variety, there were some menu items missing in action on this night. The kitchen was out of grouper and mahi mahi. An extensive wine list had Domaine Carneros pinot noir on it but there wasn't any in stock. There were but two desserts.

However, there was a fine red snapper and the wine our server recommended instead - Kali Heart pinot noir from the Robert Talbott Vineyards - turned out to be quite satisfying, chock full of rich berry notes and possessing a lovely ruby hue. We didn't suffer when it came to dessert either, but I'm getting ahead of myself.

An Italian lemon cake is a simple but elegant dessert, satisfying yet light enough for summer dining

Like many restaurants, Mille Sapore has responded to the current economic downturn by adding a summer menu with items priced at $14.99 or less. In addition, the regular menu includes seven varieties of calzone, each $12.95 or less, and close to 30 pizza varieties in two sizes, with prices running from $9.95 to $16.95. Kids' meals cost $7, with six entrees and four pizzas from which to choose.

In other words, the management makes a concerted effort to appeal to lovers of Mediterranean cuisine with a broad range of flavors and prices.

Overall, I think the strategy works.

A tabbouleh salad had great textures and flavors, including chewy bulgur, crunchy parsley and tangy lemon, all of which mingled nicely with the slices of Brie and pieces of prosciutto served with it. The menu says it's topped with roasted fennel, but I detected only some small diced pieces in the mix.

The night's special salad was indeed worthy of the designation. The fresh greens were tossed with chunks of gorgonzola cheese and dressed with a vibrant citrus vinaigrette that seemed to contain sunshine - minus the heat, of course.

PHOTOS KAREN FELDMAN Susie and Joe Schwaninger of Fort Myers relax and talk with bartender Dale Cook

Red snapper cartoccio (Italian for "cooked in a wrapper") came out still encased in the parchment paper in which it had been cooked. I love this method of cooking, which steams the fish along with vegetables, herbs and a bit of lemon and wine. The result is a moist and delicious snapper that's light and healthy.

On a previous visit I enjoyed the lamb in pomegranate sauce and can recommend it. This time, I went with the sweet ginger-soy and shallot glaze. Like the pomegranate sauce, this one complements the meat without overpowering it. Accompanied by cous cous and a medley of fresh, julienned vegetables, it was satisfying without being overly rich.

Our dessert choices were tiramisu or lemon cake. We chose the latter, despite its rather plain name. The cake itself was anything but lackluster. It had a creamy layer, a delicate cake, a pronounced lemon flavor, just the right degree of sweetness and a dollop of whipped cream to finish it off properly. Set on a lovely plate with a pink flowered border, it was a dessert worthy of a more descriptive title.

 

Mille Sapore strives to deliver service that's as good as its food. Co-owner Jimmy Elsayed greets and seats guests, making the rounds of tables periodically to ensure that everyone's happy. Our server made valiant efforts to remain attentive throughout the meal and mostly succeeded, despite having several other parties to handle. There appeared to be no one assigned to clearing tables and, as a result, the remnants of departed diners' meals remained for extended periods. That's not a major flaw, but it does detract somewhat from the experience for those who are still dining.

The meal turned out to be therapeutic. As we emerged into the muggy evening, it somehow seemed less oppressive, easier to bear. While that feeling may not last, it's good to know that rejuvenation awaits seven days a week at Mille Sapore.