Blue Pointe reels in devotees of fresh seafood and sushi

Considering our proximity to water, it seems logical that there would be plenty of fresh seafood on local menus. Logical, perhaps, but not necessarily so.

The ubiquitous - and, in my opinion, unworthy - tilapia reigns supreme on the menus of far too many establishments. Basa often masquerades as grouper. And bland pondraised shrimp dumb down dishes in which the wildcaught variety would shine.

Blue Pointe Oyster Bar & Seafood Grill stands as an exception to this practice. Although it's not necessarily local, the seafood served here isn't chosen simply because it's inexpensive or it's what the food purveyor happened to have on the truck that day. Instead, the restaurant seeks out fresh fin and shell fish, including some varieties rarely seen in these parts. Chef's specials change as the supply does. On a recent night, diners could choose from Gulf black grouper, Lake Erie perch, George's Bank lemon sole and Chesapeake Bay crab cakes, in addition to freshly shucked oysters from various chilly northern climes.

Another plus for Blue Pointe is its chic ambience. There are no tacky fishing nets, crab traps or other nautical knickknacks suspended from ceiling or walls to hammer home the message that it's a seafood restaurant. Instead, the management lets the food do that.

Lightly seared tuna stars in this colorful appetizer that also includes sticky rice and mango salsa. The dining room is somewhat dark, although pretty blue glass pendant lights illuminate each table. Mauve walls serve as a soothing backdrop for large abstract paintings and wellplaced shelves allow for the display of other objets d'art. A shiny raw bar dominates the space near the entrance and a roomy covered patio affords plenty of seating for dining al fresco.

Clearly, Blue Pointe has a lot going for it, but on my most recent visit, it fell short of the mark on both food and service.

The kitchen appears reluctant to boldly season dishes that require it. The blue cheese cole slaw vinaigrette, for example, should possess the sharp tang and aroma of this assertive cheese, but it was barely discernible.

The volcano roll is so named in sushi circles because it's a lava-like mound atop a California roll. That lava is supposed to contain spicy mayo and, as such, should pack some bite. This one didn't and an added dollop of wasabi didn't add much kick, either.

Pan-seared grouper with grilled asparagus was among the chef's specials recently at Blue Pointe. A salt and pepper tuna appetizer was billed as coming with a spicy ponzu sauce, but it wasn't spicy (the mango salsa that accompanied it was a fresh and tasty surprise).

A chef's special, panseared gulf black grouper looked beautiful with its meaty fillet glazed a golden brown. But the fish was dry from overcooking and the tender tips of some of the stalks of asparagus were charred. I know grouper isn't cheap these days, so the $28.95 price didn't surprise me but the fact that it came out so dry did.

The overcooked grouper may stem

from the system Blue Pointe uses to deploy its servers. Some restaurants assign each server a section of tables near one another. Others hand out tables on a rotating basis so that one server can land three tables in divergent directions. That's what happened to our well-meaning but overtaxed waiter, who hustled from our table to a four-top across the room and a party of nine on the patio. One result may have been that the grouper overcooked while awaiting delivery under a heat lamp in the kitchen.

PHOTOS KAREN FELDMAN The restaurant's patio is a popular gathering spot when the weather permits. The rationale for assigning tables on a rotating basis is that it's a more equitable way to divvy them up so that everyone gets their fair share. While that may be, I believe that the lessattentive service that results may translate into lower tips for everyone.

High points of the meal included the sautéed Maine scallops in sherry butter with mushrooms and asparagus, a mild dish that worked well, with a light sauce that allowed the scallops' sweetness to emerge. Hot, crusty rolls and butter served as a good start to dinner.

The standout of the meal was a rich and creamy Key lime pie on a justsweet enough graham cracker crust and topped with whipped cream. I've sampled a lot of Key lime pies and this one ranks among the best of them.

There's nothing seriously amiss at Blue Pointe. Restaurants, like pianos and cars, require tune ups now and again. I think that's what's indicated here. Blue Pointe's concept is a natural for Southwest Florida and one with the potential for a good long run if it stays sharp.