In spring, a wine lover's fancy turns to lighter fare

Up north no one dared bring out their summer whites until Memorial Day, but the rules are different here. This is the season to start changing from the big reds of winter to the light, cheerful wines of summer. There are plenty of new options to choose from. Most are white, but there are also some nice rosés to be had.

White does not necessarily mean chardonnay, the most popular white wine. Nor does it have to be sauvignon blanc, the second most popular white. This week's selections are ABCs (anything but chardonnay) as well as NSBs (not sauvignon blanc).

There are also some blushing beauties in the mix, and we'll start with one of those. It's Fireblock Grenache Rosé 2006 from the Clare Valley, Australia, something Jennifer Gilliford, wine manager of Total Wine in south Fort Myers describes as one of the "good porch wines - made for drinking cold while sitting around on a hot day."

This 100 percent grenache is a vibrant red-hued wine with strawberry and raspberry notes and a slight effervescence. Grenache was first planted in the Australian vineyard in 1926.

PHOTO JIM MCCRACKEN Jennifer Gilliford at Total Wine. Shannon Yates, self-described food and wine freak from Toro/Bacchus at Bell Tower Shops in south Fort Myers, broke out some of his new whites to taste with me.

"We have a great new wine list with some really nice wines. I like how different they all are," he says.

Among those is Chateau de la Ragotiere Muscadet Black Label 2006, which has a lovely golden hue, a big nose of citrus and flowers, some mineral notes on the tongue and a lively finish.

Yates is particularly fond of the Nora Albarino 2006 from Spain, which is light with a hint of peach and melon and a medium dry finish.

Another offbeat selection is Michel Picard Vouvray 2006, made with chenin blanc grapes. It's light and slightly sweet, a pale yellow color with an aromatic nose, and a refreshing finish.

Also new to the list is La Vieille Ferme Dry Rosé, a crisp and refreshing import from the Cotes du Ventoux district in southern France.

We finished up with a fortified wine from southern Spain.

"I really like this new sherry from Alvear," Yates says, as he savors a sip. "It's an amontillado (style), and is very smooth and nutty."

PHOTO JIM MCCRACKEN Shannon Yates at Bacchus. So put aside the zin and shiraz, the cab and the Burgundy for a while. It's time to break out of the same old groove and try something different. Discovering some of the new selections available is only half the fun - the other half is drinking them.

Wine picks of the week

>>Columbia Crest Grand Estates Chardonnay 2006: Light, smooth, with a buttery oak finish, and a lingering finish. A nice wine at a great price. About $12.

>>Kim Crawford Sauvignon Blanc Marlborough 2007: A great entry from New Zealand with citrus and mineral flavors and a crisp finish. It's a great accompaniment to seafood. About $18.

>>Domaines Schlumberger Riesling Alsace Les Princes Abbés 2005: Dry and racy, this medium-bodied white from Alsace has citrus and melon flavors with a long finish. Around $20.