Searching for low cost, big flavor in tough times

With prices of fuel and just about everything else going up - salaries being the notable exception - ever more people are cutting back on luxuries. For many, that's likely to mean they are scaling back their wine consumption, too, but it's possible to drink well without investing a fortune in grapes.

Obviously, it's easier to find a great wine at the higher end of the price spectrum, but that doesn't mean there aren't some enjoyable finds in the $15 range, sometimes referred to as value-priced wines.

Surfing the Internet can supply guidance from well-known sources, such as acclaimed wine author and critic Robert Parker. In a recent issue of Business Week, he wrote about value-priced wines from California's Cartlidge & Browne, noting: "Too few (wineries) specialize in premium wines at value prices. One that does is Cartlidge & Browne. Avoiding the extra oak and other types of manipulation used by some vintners, Cartlidge & Browne produces fruity, pure and vibrant wines that reflect varietals' personalities."

He likes the winery's pinot noir and chardonnay the best, awarding them 89 points (out of a possible 100), which he characterizes as "above average to very good." Priced at about $12 each, they are affordable, too.

Norton Torrontes

Craig LaBan, food and wine critic for the Philadelphia Inquirer, favors an Argentinian wine from Bodega Norton.

"You're probably going to be hearing more about torrontes, the white grape that is becoming Argentina's second best-known variety after malbec," he wrote. "It's the latest exotic white to fill in the vast divide between white wine's ubiquitous poles, the richness of chardonnay and the austere snap of sauvignon blanc.

"Torrontes, grown in Argentina for less than two decades, leans closer to sauvignon's tart side, but also has an intensely aromatic nose and almondy finish to give it interest."

Expect to pay less than $10 a bottle.

 

Washington Times writer Paul Lukacs likes a Chilean wine, Santa Rita Cabernet Sauvignon Reserva, Maipo Valley, priced at about $14.

"In terms of value, the Chilean wines clearly are a step ahead," he wrote. "This wine offers plenty of dark berry flavor, but it introduces its fruit with aromas and flavors that echo dried herbs, saddle leather and dark chocolate, and it finishes on a dusty, mocha note. It's rare to encounter this sort of compelling complexity in wines that cost twice as much."

Footbolt Shiraz

So what are cost-conscious local wine lovers drinking these days?

Debbie Schepler, from Cape Coral, said her favorite inexpensive wine is Covey Run Sauvignon Blanc, from Washington State, which has notes of herbs, gooseberries, green apple and fresh lime.

"It's just delicious and easy to enjoy," she said. "I serve it with dinner or with cheese and grapes."

Tina Giufre from south Fort Myers likes California chardonnay.

 

"My favorite wines are chardonnay from Rodney Strong and William Hill wineries," she said. "I like Napa and Sonoma wines. I'm not hip on French wines. Because of the price point, I prefer American wines."

Even wine experts such as Frank Pulice of Austin's Wine Cellar drink value-priced wine.

"For years my go-to wine for everyday has been a Cotes du Rhone Monday through Friday, then on the weekends either a Saint Joseph or a Crozes Hermitage," he said. "The Cotes du Rhone oftentimes is a blend of grenache and mouvedre, and sometimes carignane. I like those grape varieties because of my diet and the food I eat. Fuller-bodied reds complement the meal. I like high-protein food and roasted veggies. Fromage is always a course."

Many of his customers seek wines from specific regions.

"They look for wines from Argentina, Chile, South Africa and Spain," he said. "Sometimes they go for southern Italy and Sicily, and they look for specific varietals from these areas: Argentinian malbec and cabernet, Chilean carmenet or syrah. Generally these wines all come into the $9 to $13 price range, so they are affordable for everyday drinking."

Mitch Haley of Fort Myers likes Beringer chardonnay and Stone Cellars chardonnay, but has also found a real value in Fetzer chardonnay.

"I buy that in a two-pack at BJ's for $9.99 right now," he said. "Nobilo Sauvignon Blanc Icon is also a good everyday wine, although a step up in price. When you see something that strikes your fancy you just want to give it a try."

Haley said the Fetzer has more of an oakiness, while the Beringer is crisper, probably due to stainless steel fermentation.

There are lots of wines that bring value as well as good taste to the table. Look carefully, be open to recommendations and don't be afraid to try something new.

Wine picks of the week

>>Villa Maria Sauvignon Blanc Private Bin, New Zealand: This wine has a refreshing mix of gooseberry, lime, melon and exotic herbal aromas, giving it multiple layers of flavor with a crisp finish and pleasant acidity. Less than $15.

>>Hogue Genesis Merlot 2004, Washington State: With lots of raspberry and caramel notes, this warm, dense wine is one of those that has made people take notice of Washington's up-andcoming merlots. Less than $15.

>>D'Arenberg Shiraz The Footbolt, Australia: Firm dark red, with characteristic spicy berry and jammy flavor. Good legs, big flavors, this wine will age nicely, but is ready to drink now. About $17.