Pine Island Road scores another promising ethnic dining option

As a long-time resident of North Fort Myers, I well remember a time when going out for a meal that involved anything beyond barbecue required a fairly substantial drive to the south.

That wasn't all that long ago, but it seems a distant memory now that Pine Island Road has morphed from the remote northern boundary of the city to a central commercial and retail hub.

Along with the big-box stores - Target, Kohl's and BJ's - come big-name restaurant chains - Carrabba's, Outback, Chili's, Pollo Tropical and Panera Bread among them. Fast-food options abound as well.

And then there are the smaller independent establishments tucked into the multitude of strip centers have sprouted up along the busy thoroughfare.

Among the latter is Timbales Restaurant, a festive newcomer offering Puerto Rican cuisine, which opened in November. The menu closely resembles those of Cuban and Spanish restaurants - lots of rice, plantains, beans, roasted meats, a variety of chicken dishes and a bit of seafood. .

From the look of the place, obvious that the owners, Angelo Lista and Jason Zhang, put some serious into its creation. It's named in honor of the late Tito Puentes, known "King of the Timbales." He's represented in photos mounted on the walls and in a fairly lengthy

tribute included on the menu.

Booths are roomy and comfortable and tables are spaced well apart. Peach-colored walls, light wood accents and high ceilings create a soothing, open atmosphere. A half wall divides about a third of the tables from the larger portion, which includes the bar and a couple of flat-screen televisions (with the sound turned off). The result is that there's one side designed for more lively gatherings with a smaller, more intimate area for those who want a more sedate meal. That's not to say that the bar side, where we sat, was particularly loud, since there were only a few tables occupied, but it has that potential on a busier night.

We began dinner with a beef pastillo and an order of plantanos maduros. The former was a lovely golden turnover filled with moist, well-seasoned chopped meat.

COURTESY PHOTO General Manager Angelo Lista with the wait staff at Timbales on Pine Island Road. The plantains were soft and sweet. I'm accustomed to eating them as a side dish with roasted pork or a beef entrée, but the dish worked just fine as a starter. Salads that come with all entrees were basic but fresh.

We skipped the bread, which arrived lukewarm and with an application of sharp-tasting garlic oil.

There are entrees to suit both carnivores and sea- food lovers. In an era when chicken rarely appears on menus, Timbales offers it in several forms, including roasted, fricassee and in a classic paella.

Fricassee is generally considered a Cajun dish, a slow-simmered chicken stew, but with similar influences on the island's cuisine, it fits nicely into the Puerto Rican repertoire as well. Timbales' version definitely falls into the comfort food category, especially when served with a large portion of yellow rice studded with pigeon peas.

Zestier and also good were the camarones al ajillo - shrimp with garlic. The medium-sized shrimp were bathed in a light but garlicky sauce and served with a generous mound of rice. A bowl of basic black beans a accompanied the shrimp shrimp. The finishing touch: a coconut flan that had good flavor but was fairly light-bodied for what is usually a fairly dense custard. Served on one of the restaurant's trademark light green plates and finished with contrasting sauces, it was a lovely presentation and a refreshing end to the meal. Our server was friendly and well-acquainted with the menu, readily describing dishes upon request. She also made sure our courses arrived in good time, neither delivering another before we'd finished one nor allowing too much time to elapse in between. Timbales may not have a well-known name that immediately draws crowds, but with its combination of good food, moderate prices, cheerful servers and inviting ambience, it's likely to build a loyal following.