What's old is new again at Morgan House

Morgan House has been a fixture on First Street since long before the region became known as the Fort Myers River District.

It built its reputation on a traditional menu served in a turn-of-the-century (the 20th, that is) setting, the cozy dining room having previously been part of a private home that grew into a hotel in the 1920s. Shrimp cocktail, chicken Cordon Bleu and crab cakes were about as adventurous as the cuisine ever got and, depending on who was running the kitchen, those dishes were sometimes palatable and, at other times, not so much.

But the Price family took over last summer (they also opened the Kara Mai Lifestyles boutique next to H2 on Bay Street) and have breathed new life into the old girl.

With its classic tin ceiling and tables swathed in white linens, Morgan House still has the look of yesteryear, but the menu has gotten a surprising update. Patrons can still find conch chowder, downtown tortellini, steaks and Caloosahatchee mud pie, but the old-timers are joined by more adventurous selections such as blackened scallops, cioppino and the oddly named The Turf Ate My Surf.

While the crowd still tends toward the mature theater set, there was nearly a full house on a recent weeknight, something rarely seen in downtown restaurants in recent years. When the dining room is full, particularly with larger parties, it's downright noisy, despite the presence of a respectable amount of sound absorption in such trappings as the aforementioned tablecloths as well as carpets, padded chairs and lightweight curtains draping the front windows.

Just before 8 p.m. the night I visited, the place cleared out, leaving just a couple of tables occupied and dropping the noise level dramatically. That's when we started to hear the music, which was an unlikely mix of oldies that included "Hooked on a Feeling," by B.J. Thomas; "Shake it U Up," by the Cars; and Wham!'s "Wake Me up Before You Go-Go."

Given the rather staid environment, the mélange of music and the contemporary food, I'm not really sure  what the target market is. After eating there, however, I'd brave the crowds and the music for the reasonably priced and well-executed menu.

COURTESY PHOTO Oysters Rockefeller, featuring big, meaty oysters, spinach, cheese and bacon, are specialties of the house.

Since it's a trademark Morgan House dish, I ordered the oysters Rockefeller and was presented with a long oval dish on which sat five plump oysters generously topped with creamy spinach, cheese and diced bacon.

The oysters were hot but not overcooked, the spinach tasted fresh and the bacon had lovely smoked flavor, combining for a tasty and texturally pleasing rendition worthy of being dubbed a house specialty.

My companion ordered the blackened scallops, which were large, tender and very spicy. The heat was offset somewhat by a cool and soothing mango pineapple jicama slaw. A pool of sweet chili sauce added yet another degree of spice, making for a lively dish that's not for those who are tender of palate.

The Turf Ate my Surf is a unique take on the ubiquitous meat and seafood double header. At Morgan House, the surf is enveloped by the turf. Salads - $2 with an entrée, $3 on their own - came in square glass plates that were lightly chilled. The Caesar had a nicely balanced dressing and fresh ingredients. The same could be said for the house salad, on which we tried the raspberry-blue cheese dressing.

We both opted for house specialties for entrees. The Floribbean cioppino consisted of a mix of fin fish, mussels, clams and shrimp with tomatoes, corn and sweet potatoes in a light tomato-lime seafood broth topped off with crisp pieces of garlic bread, just right for dipping.

I tried The Turf Ate My Surf, the chef's whimsically named version of land and sea protein joined on one dish. This was a rather complicated affair that consisted of crab-stuffed shrimp wrapped in thinly sliced filet that was, in turn, wrapped in applewood smoked bacon coated with a bourbon glaze and served with a mango salsa. For an added bit of drama, a long plank of fried banana stuck straight up from the mound of garlic whipped potatoes on which the meat/seafood rolls sat. It was a rich concoction, which would been just fine without the crab. The shrimp were large and sweet, filet tender and the bacon added a salty flavor that mingled well the slightly sweet glaze.

Fresh green beans were cooked to a tender-crisp consistency. The potatoes were disappointing, however, possessing very little flavor and an unappetizing brownish-gray color.

We split the only house-made dessert: a mango-guava cheesecake. It was a circular portion in which both the mango and guava flavors were evident and refreshing. We pushed aside both the whipped topping and the lime green sauce that accompanied the cheesecake, although the sauce dressed up the plate nicely.

Our server - and those other two I could observe from my seat - were hard-working, pleasant and appeared to know the menu well.

The wine list is on the smallish side - about three dozen choices - with eight whites and five reds available by the glass. The red by-the-glass options could do with some broadening, although I enjoyed the Gordon Brothers merlot, with its ruby red hue and rich cherry and plum notes with a hint of chocolate. My companion liked the Paul Blanck pinot blanc, which was very dry with a strong slate bouquet and flavor.

Overall, things are looking up at Morgan House. It's got a little something for adventurous palates, seafood lovers and confirmed meat-andpotatoes types, all at prices that won't spoil your appetite.