A&E

Talkin' turkey: wine choices for the holidays

The holidays are upon us, which translates into party time. That means, of course, not only going out to socialize with friends new and old, but also attending and hosting all those parties.

Many hosts and hostesses, especially those who don't entertain at home very often, may find themselves agonizing over what wines to serve when inviting friends for a festive dinner. What will complement the rich and varied flavors that we find on our plates at this time of year?

I turned to the pros for some answers. Their suggestions would hold true for both Thanksgiving and Christmas as well as all those holiday soirees in between.

• Shannon Yates, well-known local restaurateur and purveyor of spicy crab rolls, recommends an Alsatian Riesling or Gewurztraminer.

"I was at a tasting in Naples at Escargot 41 and met Philippe Blanck of Paul Blanck Alsatian wines," he says. "These are some remarkable wines that go well with rich foods."

He was looking forward to enjoying a Thanksgiving magnum of Saintsbury Carneros Pinot Noir with a lamb dinner.

• Gloria Cabral, of La Trattoria Café Napoli in the Villas Plaza, was planning an interesting weekend tent camping near Alva with a group of couples. She's serving Begali Lorenzo Valpolicella Classico Superiore 2005 and San Lorenzo Montepulciano d'Abruzzo 2004 with their wild hog and wild turkey feast.

"These two particular wines are fuller bodied than most with a lot of fruit and go well with the big flavors from wild game," says Cabral.

n Frank Pulice of Austin's Wine Cellar in the Villas Plaza thinks Champagne is the perfect choice.

"It's festive, and bubbly and exciting," he says. "Champagne goes well with all the different flavors associated with turkey and dressing. In a red wine, I would go with the W. H. Smith Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir, which is flavorful, well balanced and has a nice smooth finish."

Pulice also recommended Alsatian gewürztraminer for a traditional dinner. "Nothing too acidic or tannic, just palatepleasing flavors," says Pulice.

Then he showed me a wine from his private stash: Velvet Glove Shiraz McLaren Vale, the latest and greatest from Mollydooker of Australia. This unique wine comes in a hand-sewn black velvet bag, with a label that looks like a velvet glove, but the real beauty is the wine itself.

"This is the best wine they have ever made," Pulice says. "It is the very first bottling. (Wine guru) Robert Parker gives it a 99."

He has a very limited amount for sale. Any reader interested in my personal tasting opinions and notes may feel free to buy a bottle (which will cost $200-plus) and I'll meet you (anywhere) to try this jewel.

n Tom Hart of vino 100 near Bonefish Grill in The Park Shops at Andrea Lane, has his own ideas.

"These two white wines," pointing to a display table near the door, "are just right for festive dinners." Hart was gesturing at Bladen Marlborough Gewurztraminer 2004 from New Zealand and Joseph Friedrich Piesporter Goldtropfchen Kabinett 2006 from the Mosel River valley. Another choice of Hart's was Cinco Tierras Malbec Classico 2003, an Argentinean wine that "goes great with prime rib (and) has a hint of raspberries."

Hart also has some unusual sparklers for the holidays, including La Sera Di Casorzo 2006, a 100 percent Malvasia sweet sparkling wine from Spain, and Fox Creek Vixen Sparkling Shiraz.

• Viviana Vena, of Fabio's Restaurant in North Fort Myers, hosts the family's Thanksgiving feast every year and serves fresh mimosas to start.

"I make my mimosas with freshsqueezed orange juice, prosecco and asti spumanti for a hint of sweetness," she says. "We think mimosas help the appetizers go down easier."

Other wines she serves include Santa Maria cabernet sauvignon from Argentina and Ruffino Chianti Classico from Italy.

Most of the time, though, she lets guests choose the wines while she handles the food.

"The more people we have over, the more different wines we end up serving," Vena says. "Sometimes we have a Barolo or Amarone, even a Pinot Grigio because so many people like it."

This year she is making her own pumpkin ravioli with brown butter-sage sauce and serving pinot grigio or perhaps an Orvieto, another popular Italian white, with it.

• And what will we be giving thanks with at the McCracken table Thanksgiving? My mother-in-law prefers whites and she is an ABC drinker (anything but chardonnay), so we have a nice Trimbach Pinot Gris Reserve 2002 for her. There is a W. H. Smith Pinot Noir (which my wife and I like as much as Pulice does) and a tasty Montepulciano de Abruzzo for my fatherin law (one of his favorites). There's no telling what kind of dessert wines could make an appearance. Happy holidays.¦


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