Courtney's defies truisms about what it takes to succeed

When was the last time you just happened to drive along Kenwood Lane?

But for a consignment shop, the back route to Aamco and The Olive Garden, there's only one reason most people turn onto the small retail route behind the shopping center at College Parkway and U.S. 41: to dine at Courtney's Continental Cuisine.

Courtney's has survived on this road less traveled for four years, defying the notion that a conspicuous location is critical to success.

Instead, chef Dale Tonell and his life and business partner, Betty, have cultivated a longstanding clientele hooked on their food and hospitality. Dale Tonell has worked at restaurants and country clubs in Cape Coral, Fort Myers and Sanibel since the early '80s.

Almost since Courtney's opened in Fort Myers four years ago, I regularly encountered local foodies who like to think that it's their own little secret. (The couple subsequently opened a second location, at the Holiday Inn in Sanibel.)

Don't go to the Fort Myers restaurant expecting that chic-but-noisy ambience so prevalent in recent years. Whether you're dining al fresco or indoors, it's possible to hear Sinatra or a big band classic playing in the background. Should you be inclined, you will have no problem conversing with, and listening to, your dining companions.

Dale Tonell, chef/owner of Courtney's Continental Cuisine, has built a devoted following through years at area restaurants and country clubs. He and his wife, Betty, operate Courtney's in Fort Myers and Sanibel. Don't go hungering for organic microgreen garnishes, fusion cuisine or green apple martinis. Fresh parsley and cheesecloth encased lemon halves grace hearty platters of fresh continental fare and alcohol is limited to beer and wine.

We lucked out weather-wise the evening we visited. It was one of those nights last week when it was just cool enough to consider an outdoor table. Betty Tonell guided us to one on the patio cozily set between the thick trunks of two trees that stretched up and out of the ceiling. The trunks and rafters above were strung with tiny white lights. A mural depicting a lush tropical garden spanned the one solid wall while the other three sides were open, allowing a gentle breeze to waft through.

PHOTOS BY KAREN FELDMAN From Courtney's pasta menu comes shrimp St. Maarten, an ensemble of shrimp and artichokes bathed in a garlic scallion white wine butter sauce with asparagus over angel-hair pasta. The wine list leans toward selections in the $25-$35 range, with a few at $60 and higher. We savored a 2004 Napa Valley ZD cabernet sauvignon, which though still young, possessed bold notes of plums and blackberries with a hint of spice.

It worked well with the warm chewy bread and balsamic-garlic oil served with it. It nicely complemented appetizers of artichokes Rachel and dill pickle chowder, too.

The artichokes, a house specialty, came stuffed with crab, rolled in breadcrumbs and fried to a beautiful golden hue. They were accompanied by a pool of zesty, not sweet, homey-mustard sauce. Although the artichokes could have been served hotter, they were quite good.

The dill pickle may not seem a natural for soup, but it's fairly popular in parts of the Midwest. Tonell's version, a thick, creamy chowder chock full of potatoes and tender-crisp pickles, is a standout and a bargain at $3.95 per cup or $4.95 a bowl. (Or you can have it in lieu of a salad with any entrée for no extra charge.)

A Caesar salad was simple and delicious - fresh Romaine and grated cheese with tiny croutons that tasted like the house bread seasoned and toasted then finished with a lively dressing. The house salad was pretty, but excess water gathered beneath the greens diluted the blue cheese dressing.

Courtney's pays proper homage to duck l'orange. The menu touts the duck Grand Marnier as crisp. Our server assured me it was. I'm always skeptical though, having been disappointed at many elsewheres.

I am happy to report, this duck had a deliciously crisp skin over still-moist meat. The grand Marnier sauce was perfectly balanced, supplying a full orange flavor without the cloying sweetness. Accompanied by perfectly cooked chunks of zucchini with tomatoes and fresh herbs and a baked potato, it was a bountiful, satisfying meal.

The shrimp St. Maarten was equally well done, with big juicy shrimp, artichokes and asparagus over angel hair pasta with a garlic scallion white wine butter sauce.

There's no backsliding here when it comes to sweets, either. The server assured us all five of the desserts were made there. We shared a large wedge of Key lime pie, which had a hearty graham cracker crust and a rich cheesecake consistency. What's more, the lime flavor wasn't drowned out by sweetened condensed milk.

Our server was friendly, well informed and handled wine service well. We were her lone table outdoors, however, and so there were some prolonged absences when we could have used a refill on our water or the check.

But given what a nice evening it was and that we'd just enjoyed a great dinner and an equally great wine, we weren't in a big hurry anyway.