VINO

Not everything that arrives at the office is junk mail 

I was fixing a computer the other day when the office manager stepped in and gave me the eye.

"Ruth, I'll be along in a bit to fix that program that's giving you trouble," I said.

"Oh that can wait," she said. "I just wanted you to know that you will be sharing that case of wine that just arrived unless you go up to reception and pick it up."

It's the season for direct shipments from some wineries, and I had been eagerly anticipating this case for a while. I ordered it direct from W. H. Smith Winery in Sonoma, and received some memorable wines in return. Pinot noir - elegant, supple, fruity, with big nose and bigger flavors ... I'm drooling at the thought.

Ordering wine by mail from Florida used to be prohibited. But the law changed last year, and we can now order directly from U.S. wineries. There are advantages and disadvantages to this.

First, let me say that the easiest way to get that special bottle is head to the local bottle shop and talk to "the man" (or "the woman"). Just because you haven't seen the selection in a store doesn't mean it's unavailable. This is the best way to purchase for several reasons:

COURTESY PHOTO W. H. Smith Pinot Noirs

Buying locally supports the local economy.

The retailer might be able and willing to stock what you want if you ask.

Avoid shipping costs.

You can purchase a smaller amount - many wineries require you buy a case (12 bottles) at a time.

Avoid the hassle of paying the sales tax direct to the state (which you are required to do by mailing it in using the Department of Revenue Form DR-15MO).

Still, some wines just are not available locally. There may be no distribution channel, or the quantity produced could be very small.

Many wines aren't available because they are sold only to restaurants and not to retail shops. Normally these are high-quality limited production wines, and restaurants need to be able to purchase enough to keep it on the wine list.

Also, be aware that just because you buy direct from the winery, the price is not apt to be lower. Wineries do not under price their retail outlets, which is where they make their big profits.

For example, you can purchase Rosenblum Richard Sauret Vineyard Zinfandel 2005 direct from the winery at $25 per bottle, plus shipping and handling (plus Florida sales tax), or you can patronize a local business, such as Total Wine, where it sells for $21.95 plus tax.

The only real reason to order online or by mail is to get something you couldn't otherwise purchase.

Another plus to buying locally is that you can taste a lot of wines before buying. Here's a sampling of area tastings:

55 Degrees, Gulf Coast Town Center, San Carlos Park, 466-0155: This gourmet wine and cheese shop conducts tastings most Fridays and some Sundays. Call 461- 0155 to reserve a spot.

Austin's Wine Cellar, 12377 S. Cleveland Ave., Fort Myers, 275-7200: Owner Frank Pulice holds tastings on the third Friday of each month. Cost: $10, which includes a Riedel glass to keep, and a $5 discount on a purchase made the night. Call to reserve a spot.

Blue Pepper, 7091-14 College Parkway, Fort Myers, 939-4700: There's a tasting featuring 25-30 wines the second Wednesday of each month. Cost: $20 per person, which includes a $10 coupon for use that night on a wine or food purchase. Call for details.

Total Wine and Spirits, U.S. 41 and Daniels Parkway, Fort Myers, 432-0510: Wine tastings take place from 4 to 7 p.m. Fridays, noon to 6 p.m. Saturdays and 1 to 5 p.m. Sundays.

Gulf Points Liquors, 15561 McGregor Blvd, Fort Myers 482-7777: From 5 to 8 p.m. on the last Thursday of each month, there's a tasting with as many as 25 wines. Cost: $10, which covers this and all future tastings and affords you a 10 percent discount on wine purchases at any time.

Most of these locations have an informative newsletter as well, so be sure to sign up when you are there.

Wine picks of the week

>>W. H. Smith Maritime Vineyards Pinot Noir 2006, about $60: (You had to see this one coming.) This is a beauty! Good dark color, big legs, with dark cherry/berry/plums flavors and an exceptionally long finish make this a wine to enjoy now and for the next few years. I confess, I never can save a bottle until the next vintage comes out. >>Newton Unfiltered Chardonnay Napa Valley, about $55: From the Carneros district, this smooth buttery wine was the first unfiltered chardonnay produced in Napa Valley. Good structure, weight and a long finish are the hallmarks of this classic, which reminds me of a white French Burgundy. >>Alexander Valley Vineyards Sin Zin Zinfandel 2005, about $18: Deep ruby color with cherry and plum fruit and a dash of black pepper, this Sonoma County wine was originally made to serve as the winemakers' house wine.