Cape's Azucar offers top-notch fare in a cozy, relaxed atmosphere

Sometimes it's hard to understand where a restaurant's name comes from. But at Azucar, it's downright obvious. In Spanish, the lyrical name simply means sugar and sweet is just what a meal at this relatively new Cape Coral restaurant is.

Owned by Adolfo Cartaya, his wife, Maritsa and their cousin, Juan Jose Molina, Azucar serves Cuban fare in a relaxed, inviting setting. One side of the establishment contains an attractive dining room done in a soothing palette of cream, rose, peach and subdued green. Walls hold framed photos of Hispanic stars old and new.

On Friday and Saturday nights, there's live guitar music that adds a dash of romance to the meal.

The other side of the restaurant is a dazzling bakery with bright lights illuminating glass display cases full of freshly baked treats including mango or guava cheesecake, flan, chocolate cake, cream-filled pastries, tarts and more. It's tempting to skip the meal and head straight for dessert (and some superb Cuban coffee) but resist the temptation. The savory fare is every bit as delicious as the baked goods.

Also be aware that portions are generous here so order with caution, something I failed to do on this particular night.

PHOTO KAREN FELDMAN Adolfo Cartaya, the owner of Azucar, displays his a sampling of his fresh-baked cakes and pastries. It seemed reasonable to order a sampler platter to start. There were two of us, after all, so we'd both be able to taste a little of several items. At $12.95 it's the most expensive dish on the appetizer list and the reason was clear when our server placed the oblong platter on the table. It was filled with fried shrimp, two tamales, three pieces of roasted chicken, a mound of yuca, chunks of roasted pork along with three sauces: a mango-mustard, a tomatoey Creole and a tropical pineapple coconut.

Every item on the plate was hot and fresh, cooked to just the proper point and arranged artfully. Should you order this bountiful dish, I'd recommend having at least three people willing to graze from it or making it the main course.

The garlicky chunks of pork were moist and flavorful and enhanced by the smoky mango-mustard sauce. The Creole and tropical sauces both complemented the shrimp and yucca. The seasoning on the chicken wings needed no enhancement, nor did the tamales.

PHOTO KAREN FELDMAN Paella Valenciana is a traditional Spanish dish that contains a montage of seafood and chicken in fragrant saffron rice. My companion went on to enjoy still more pork by ordering El Clasico, pork chunks in a Caribbean mojo. Again the pork was moist and well seasoned. Entrees come with a choice of side dishes. His black beans were firm and redolent of cumin served atop fluffy yellow rice.

I ordered the paella Valenciana, a dish that appears as if it should be simple to do well but which, alas, eludes many chefs.

The kitchen at Azucar understands this delicate concoction, starting with fragrant yellow rice into which is folded tender chunks of chicken and fish as well as shrimp, mussels and a lobster tail. The seasoning was perfect, the seafood and chicken tender with just the essence of white wine flavoring the mix. It was served in a lovely orange bowl atop a platter with blue and orange rays emanating from beneath the paella.

Like the sampler platter before it, this dish could well serve two or three.

I also tried an order of succulent sweet plantains on the side, which played nicely off the savory flavors of the paella.

We finished neither of our entrees, but that was purposeful because we absolutely, positively had to have dessert. I sampled a classic flan, which was thick, rich and just sweet enough. My companion had a two layered cake: chocolate beneath, vanilla above with a crunchy topping that possessed the faintest note of anisette.

A cup of Cuban coffee arrived steaming hot and sweet without a hint of bitterness or acidity.

Let me not fail to mention that the desserts were $3 each, an extremely low price for baked fare of this caliber.

We departed with enough leftovers for three more meals, which was fine because everything we'd ordered, with the possible exception of the fried shrimp, heated up well.

I visited one other evening for an equally good meal, but with the added bonus of live guitar music (Fridays and Saturdays only).

On both occasions there were few people there during our meal so it's hard to know how well the restaurant handles service when it's busy, but on both evenings our servers were charming, accommodating and attentive, making us feel comfortable and wanted.

Azucar has earned a spot on my visit-often list. There are but a handful of these around town. Try it and I'm betting it will soon appear on yours as well.

¦ If you go

Azucar Restaurant & Bakery 3326 Del Prado Blvd. S., Cape Coral; 549-2833

Ratings:
Food: four stars
Service: three ½ stars
Atmosphere: four stars

>>Hours: Open for breakfast, lunch and dinner every day. >>Reservations: Not necessary. >>Credit cards: Major cards accepted. >>Price range: appetizers $2.95-$12.95; entrees, $9.95-$24.95

>>Beverages: Beer, wine and low-alcohol frozen drinks >>Seating: Conventional tables and chairs. >>House specialties: Paella Valenciana, lechon asado (roasted pork with apples and brown sugar rum sauce), torre de mariscos a la cream (lobster, shrimp and fish in cream cheese sauce), pechuga de pollo (fried chicken breast in pina colada sauce), fresh baked goods >>Volume: Low to moderate >>Parking: Free lot directly outside restaurant