FLORIDA WEEKLY CUISINE

Downtown restaurants struggling through construction woes

During a visit to Philadelphia last week, I had the pleasure of trying out one of the city's new culinary gems: Osteria, the latest venture by native son Marc Vetri.

The daring young chef - who was named "Best Mid-Atlantic Chef" in 2005 and one of the country's top 10 new chefs by Food and Wine Magazine in 1999 - made his name with Vetri, an intimate and in-demand establishment with a mere 35 seats.

While the City of Brotherly Love's restaurant scene doesn't have the reputation for excellence that those in New York, Chicago and San Francisco do, it's about time that it got some recognition for what's happening there.

With talented showmen such as Masaharu Morimoto of "Iron Chef" fame, Georges Perrier and his legendary Le Bec- Fin, Christopher Lee of Striped Bass, one of entrepreneur Stephen Starr's burgeoning family of restaurants, and Vetri with his two bastions of contemporary Italian fare leading the way, the city has earned its place among the nation's best cities for discriminating diners.

Vetri's philosophy: "Cooking is about finding ingredients that are indigenous to your area and then using the simplest techniques to convey their purity."

FLORIDA WEEKLY PHOTO Folks trying to get to downtown River District restaurants such as H2, pictured here, must navigate a number of construction hurdles. Raised in Philly, Vetri worked with Wolfgang Puck, then headed to Italy to learn how to butcher meats, make prosciutto, olive oil, lard and pasta.

Returning to his hometown, he first opened the much-lauded Vetri and, in February, added Osteria, located just a few blocks from City Hall on a rough-and-tumble block of Broad Street that's struggling to gentrify.

While enjoying a superb meal with my husband and parents there, which included Lancaster County chicken, grilled Jersey corn and homemade apricot sorbet, I couldn't help but think about the struggling restaurant scene in downtown Fort Myers.

Philly's government seems to understand that it needs to help its restaurateurs and, to that end, I spotted several police cars cruising slowly by the place before we entered and while we dined.

It seemed in stark contrast to what's happening in the much smaller and less populated area in Fort Myers that's struggling to reinvent itself as The River District. Although there's been lip service to the effect that the city wants to help downtown merchants, I have yet to see much in the way of action.

Most of the efforts seem to come from the business people themselves. A prime example would be Harold Balink who, in the face of the seemingly endless streetscaping project downtown continues to fight back in an effort to keep his two restaurants - Harold's on Bay and H2 - up and running.

Despite the war zone that is Bay Street, he's kept both establishments open and is trying all manner of promotions to persuade locals to brave the construction, including valet parking on weekends, halfpriced bottles of wine and now Sunday brunch.

From 11 a.m. to 2 p.m. Sunday, he's kicking off a Sunday brunch, which he hopes to offer once or twice a month. This week's offerings will include lobster or tenderloin Benedict with truffle Hollandaise, bananas Foster-stuffed French toast with Grand Marnier sabayon, sea bass Francaise and lamb with blueberry risotto. Entrée prices will range from $6 to $20.

As for beverages, consider bottomless mimosas and a make-your-own bloody Mary bar.

"We're trying to make it fun and it will help pay the rent," says Balink. "We want to make it casual, where people can come in, read the paper and have a great meal."

Harold's is at 2224 Bay St., downtown Fort Myers. Call 226-1686 for reservations. Free parking along Broadway, Jackson and Hendry streets and Edwards Drive should be plentiful at that time of day. Avoid the construction by parking somewhere off First and walking through the alley that leads from Salon Nicholas back to Harold's.

I'll be there. I hope you will, too. Cru crew member returns

A member of the Cru family has come home. Presiding over the chef's table again is chef and bon vivant Ruth Cohen, who took a few months' break to help out at Café Cibo and Char. But Cru and its hip, creative aura inevitably drew her back.

"I'm delighted to be here, I feel like it's my home," Cohen says. "It's food I can relate to and I like working for and with Shannon (Yates.)."

Yates, the executive chef and creative force behind Cru, seems equally happy.

"I'm at a loss for words," he says. "She was such a part of everything. She made that chef's table and it's back to what it was when she was there before. There's been an immediate response. I'm thrilled and a lot of other people are thrilled that she's back."

Other Cru news:

-- On Sunday night, Cru's monthly protein series features shellfish. The special dinner will be served from 6 to 9 p.m. It's $60 per person for dinner only, $85 for dinner and wine. Prices do not include tax and gratuity.

-- Yates plans to keep the Bell Tower Shops restaurant and the outside bar open while the Tasca lounge is transformed into a sushi bar. Construction should start on or about Aug. 26 and should last four or five days as new booths and the expansive sushi bar are installed.

For details and reservations, call Cru at 466-3663. Cin Cin expands tapas menu

Devotees of small plates have already discovered the little treasures served up at Cin Cin (pronounced Chin Chin, which is an Italian toast that means "to good health") Mediterranean Bar & Grill at the corner of McGregor Boulevard and Cypress Lake Drive.

Now Executive Chef Scott Sopher has expanded his repertoire, offering some 40 small plates, including beef or tuna carpaccio, stuffed calamari, duck banderillas, paella spring roll, stuffed quail, pistachio chicken liver pate and salmon rosettes.

"We have created specialties from several Mediterranean countries and infused them with our own signature style, unique to Cin Cin," says Sopher. "With our kitchen open late, diners can enjoy tapas up to 10 p.m. every night."

For details and reservations call 415-2007 or go online at www.cincingrille.com. A taste of Montana

Ted's Montana Grill has opened at the Coastland Mall. The chain, which also has a branch at Coconut Point in Estero, is the brainchild of media mogul Ted Turner and restaurateur George McKerrow Jr.

The restaurant, a classic American grill, serves fresh, made-from-scratch meals using all-natural premium Harris Ranch beef, National Bison Association-certified bison and Springer Mountain chicken as well as seafood.

A sampling of the menu includes: crab cakes, pecan-crusted trout, cedar plank salmon, steaks, meatloaf, burgers, salads, soups and sides.

The décor boasts a fetching Arts & Crafts style of the early 20th century, reminiscent of turn-of-the-century Montana with mahogany paneling, pressed tin ceilings, pendant lighting, metal crown moldings and unpolished brass.

In keeping with its environmental mindset, menus are printed on recycled paper, straws are made of paper, to-go cups are made of corn starch and soft drinks are served in recyclable glass bottles.

"We're committed to doing our part to protect the environment and we continue to seek out and find non-petroleum-based, recyclable products for our restaurants," McKerrow says.

The restaurant, which opened Monday at 1900 Tamiami Trail North, serves lunch and dinner seven days a week. It's open 11 a.m. to 10 p.m. Sunday through Thursday and 11 a.m. to 11 p.m. Friday and Saturday. Call (239) 436-1916 for details or online at tedsmontanagrill.com. Chill out at Chilean dinner

There's a reward for enduring the sticky subtropical summer: Chefs have a lot more time and incentive to plan special events aimed at luring in the locals.

To that end, the Sandy Butler, at 17650 San Carlos Blvd., just south of the intersection of San Carlos Boulevard and Summerlin Road, will host a Chilean wine dinner on Thursday, Aug. 23. The event starts at 6:30 p.m. with dinner set to begin at 7:30 p.m.

Enjoy four courses with four wines and entertainment for $75 per person, plus tax and gratuity. A sampling of the menu includes: empanada (meat or seafood), palta reina (avocado filled with tuna topped with aioli over mixed greens), conger eel soup, egg-topped beef with French fries and fried onions or Buffalo spare ribs and dried peaches with sweet corn or a filled pastry topped with chocolate.

Call 482-6765 for reservations. ¦