Jayne's Victorian Garden captivates with whimsy, charm and inspired food

I will confess to some mixed feeling as I headed into Jayne's Victorian Garden. I've had lunch there several times and it was always good. But the menu was quite a departure from that of The Mad Hatter, proprietors Brian and Jayne Bakers' previous establishment.

Jayne's is quite good in a healthy sort of way - lots of vegetarian options, organic brown rice, Bragg's amino acids, some gluten free items and other dishes that cater to special diets.

My memories of The Hatter, an "Alice in Wonderland" themed gulf-front gem on Sanibel Island, which the Bakers operated in the '90s, were of opulent, innovative cuisine, characterized by Brian's trademark panseared sea scallops with white chocolate caper dill butter sauce.

Now Jayne's has commenced serving dinner. How, I wondered, would it stand up to my oh-so-fond recollections of those longago island repasts?

As I quickly discovered, there was no need for concern. The Bakers are very much on their game and have expertly melded the healthful and the delectable. From the first taste of our appetizers to the last bite of dessert, every morsel was artfully prepared, plated and presented.

PHOTO JIM MCCRACKEN Co-proprietor Jayne Baker stops by a table at her namesake restaurant to chat with customers and tempt them with her desserts. One meal is all it's likely to take to convince even the most health-food-resistant soul that good for you can also be just plain good.

Because Jayne's is only open three nights a week for dinner, the Bakers have sensibly kept their menu small. I had the foresight to bring along three friends instead of the usual one, enabling me to sample even more dishes.

We ordered all three appetizers on the menu. First up: the portabella veggie stack, a well-constructed edifice of grilled, sliced portabella, red pepper and tomato dressed in basil, garlic, a bit of olive oil and a splash of balsamic vinaigrette.

The day's quesadilla consisted of a crisp whole wheat tortilla sliced into wedges stuffed with pieces of crab, roasted corn and tomatoes and just enough Brie to lend a creamy note to the simple ingredients. Lovely and luscious.

And then, the ultimate test: the pan-seared scallops. They were just as I remembered: browned on the outside, juicy and tender within, swathed in that sauce that doesn't seem as if it should taste good - white chocolate, capers, dill and butter - but it does. The slightly sweet white chocolate and butter make a velvety creamy base for the salty capers and fragrant dill, and all of it went swimmingly with the scallops. (Although this dish is listed as an appetizer, it's also available in an entrée-sized portion.)

PHOTO KAREN FELDMAN Chief Brian Baker provides the inspiration behind the creative menu while his wife, Jayne, focuses on wheat-free but luscious desserts. The large salads served two well so we split a spinach salad with glazed pecans, goat cheese, mushrooms, red onions and strawberries and a berry vinaigrette. Most spinach salads get overshadowed by bacon, but this vegetarian version allowed all the cool veggies and berries and the slightly warm cheese to shine.

We could hardly wait for the entrees.

Both of the nightly specials were indeed special: perfectly cooked yellowtail on rice that had a slight cilantro-induced emerald green hue and, the land special, sliced pork with house-made red-pepper jelly. Both were simple yet elegant. The vegetable paprikash was an inspired combination of rice pasta, stewed tomatoes, onions, bell pepper and assorted other fresh veggies. It was every bit as good as the meat-based versions of paprikash I've had. My friend ate every last bit then declared she'd like to return the following night for more.

I couldn't disagree, especially after I took my first bite of the pulled, de-boned duck. Pieces of duck were mixed with spinach, onions, tomatoes and cider vinegar, encircled by a ring of roasted rosemary potatoes. It's a great treatment of duck because it eliminates the inconvenience of removing it from bones at the table and altogether avoids the skin issue - almost always touted as crisp but which rarely is.

Portions at Jayne's are just right, neither anemic dots that look dwarfed on a plate nor so large that they intimidate. As a result, we all had room for dessert, especially after Jayne herself regaled us with the lineup, all of which are made without wheat flour. If she hadn't told us, it isn't likely we'd have figured it out. From the brownie to the lavender cake with lemon glaze to the double chocolate layer cake to the almond cake with coconut icing, each one was dense and full of flavor. She replaces flour with ground almonds, ground rice and other wheat-free substances that wind up having the texture of a conventional cake but are also suitable for people with wheat sensitivity.

Although it's the height of summer, when restaurants aren't nearly as busy as they are in the winter, it's a good idea to phone ahead if you want to land one of the three booths or seven tables in the cozy dining room.

It's a particularly soothing spot during this wretchedly hot season, the vine-wrapped trellis that frames the open kitchen lends the sensation of dining in a shady garden.

And, if that's not enough, there's shopping, too. Around the perimeter of the dining room are tables chock full of handmade jewelry, crafts and homemade jams, relishes, plus catnip and other gourmet items available for purchase.

Another plus: It's one of the few bringyour own-bottle spots in town. Lacking a beer and wine license, the restaurant offers no alcohol for sale, but has the glasses and accoutrements needed as well as servers who know how to present wine. The corkage fee is $10 a table. (We brought a bottle of Rosenblum's Richard Sauret zinfandel, with its dark berry flavors and hints of vanilla and pepper, which proved a worthy companion to the pork, duck and even the yellowtail.)

We left sated and content, exiting the cool, relaxed cocoon of this secret garden and stepping back into the soupy, summer night that somehow didn't seem as hard to bear as it did before we'd had such a memorable meal.

If you go

Jayne's Victorian Garden
12901-13 McGregor Blvd.,
Fort Myers, FL33919; 482-2466

>>Hours: Lunch is served from 11 a.m. to 2 p.m. Monday through Friday, dinner 5 to 8:30 p.m. Thursday through Saturday.

>>Reservations: Recommended for dinner

>>Credit cards: Major cards accepted.

>>Price range: Appetizers, $6-$11; entrees, $13-$24

>>Beverages: Alcohol-free beverages available. Customers may bring their own wine for a $10 per table corkage fee.

>>Seating: Three booths and seven standard tables indoors. Limited seating outside.

>>House specialties: Pan-seared scallops with white chocolate caper dill butter sauce, organic brown rice with fresh mixed vegetables (and choice of protein), pulled de-boned duck, vegetable paprikash, big cookies

>>Volume: Low

>>Parking: Free parking available in lot directly in front of restaurant.