REVIEW

Financial advisors have long urged investors to diversify, diversify, diversify. Apparently, Asian restaurants are following suit, perhaps for the same reason: Like the stock market, the American palate is unpredictable and prone to changing on a whim. To ensure that potential patrons find something that suits them, many restaurants now boast two, or even three, cuisines.

Asia, a comely little oasis just off busy Daniels Parkway, offers an array of sushi, a few cooked Japanese dishes and a broad selection of Thai fare. The kitchen does a good job on all three.

The restaurant sits back from Daniels Parkway, just behind the Orion Bank. It's a modest storefront, but the interior is nicely appointed, with a cool, tranquil air. Cobalt blue is the predominant color. Small blue overhead lights dangle above tables dressed in blue linens. Simply framed prints line one long wall; the sushi bar occupies most of the opposite side.

We wanted to sample a little of everything, so we started off with sushi, then moved on to Thai entrees.

COURTESY PHOTOS Asia's sushi chef prepares to deliver a fresh platter of sushi and sashimi. From our vantage point in the dining room, we were able to get something of a look as the sushi chefs confidently went about their work. The sushi bar is an immaculate glass structure filled with fresh fish and vegetables, and lined by a row of seats. There appeared to be a handful of regulars clustered there on this weekday evening, all eating sushi and smiling.

The plate of sushi our hospitable server (who may also have been the owner) brought us was lovely and fresh. A crunch roll contained a well-balanced mélange of smoke salmon, scallions, cucumber, crab and a layer of tempura flakes that provided the crunch. The dragon roll was filled with fried shrimp, asparagus and avocado then finished with a drizzle of spicy mayonnaise. Two pieces of tuna sushi were right on the mark, buttery and succulent.

While there are a few Japanese options on the appetizer menu - miso soup, gyoza, tempura and edamame among them - the bulk of the entrees are Thai.

Shrimp with panang curry is a popular Thai dish. We settled on the jumbo shrimps with volcano sauce, a house specialty, and tofu with ginger sauce. Both dishes arrived hot, fragrant and artfully arranged.

The six jumbo shrimp were draped over a mound of vegetables, topped with a z e s t y sweet

chili sauce and fresh cilantro. The shrimp were perfectly fried, the vegetables still tender-crisp and the chili sauce satisfyingly piquant and sweet.

The tofu was browned but tender, bathed in a gingery broth and served with a mix of fresh vegetables that were also lightly cooked. This mild dish proved a nice complement to the zestier shrimp.

There were a few tables occupied during our visit and but one person to handle them all. Taking into account that sushi isn't fast food, the pace of the meal didn't appear to suffer from a shortage of staff.

D e s s e r t s include fried ice cream and fried bananas, and sweet rice with mango, but we were too full to give it a try. As for the sushi and the Thai food, they were just fine. It's a good choice for an occasion when you don't want to choose between the two.

Asia
6631 Orion Drive, Suite 107, Fort
Myers; 277-7797

Hours: 11 a.m. to 2:30 p.m. and 5-10 p.m.
  Monday-Saturday
Price range: Appetizers, $2.95-$8.95; entrees,
  $10.95-$20.95
Beverages: About a half-dozen wines listed by
  variety, sans brand, are sold by the glass or bottle.
  Several beers, including Singha and Kirin, are
  available.
Specialties of the house: Sushi; whole snapper
  or lobster served with red curry, basil or volcano
  sauce; and boneless half duck with basil, red curry
  or panang curry sauce
Seating: An attractive and expansive sushi bar
  affords a ring-side view of the creative process.
  The other option is a conventional table and chairs
Volume: Low to moderate
Parking: Free parking is available in front of the
  restaurant.